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At least 19 recordsLinked to original sources
USGS2014

Formation of fine sediment deposit from a flash flood river in the Mediterranean Sea

We identify the mechanisms controlling fine deposits on the inner-shelf in front of the Besòs River, in the northwestern Mediterranean Sea. This river is characterized by a flash flood regime discharging large amounts of water (more than 20 times the mean water discharge) and sediment in very short periods lasting from hours to few days. Numerical model output was compared with bottom sediment observations and used to characterize the multiple spatial and temporal scales involved in offshore sediment deposit formation. A high-resolution (50 m grid size) coupled hydrodynamic-wave-sediment transport model was applied to the initial stages of the sediment dispersal after a storm-related flood event. After the flood, sediment accumulation was predominantly confined to an area near the coastline as a result of preferential deposition during the final stage of the storm. Subsequent reworking occurred due to wave-induced bottom shear stress that resuspended fine materials, with seaward flow exporting them toward the midshelf. Wave characteristics, sediment availability, and shelf circulation determined the transport after the reworking and the final sediment deposition location. One year simulations of the regional area revealed a prevalent southwestward average flow with increased intensity downstream. The circulation pattern was consistent with the observed fine deposit depocenter being shifted southward from the river mouth. At the southern edge, bathymetry controlled the fine deposition by inducing near-bottom flow convergence enhancing bottom shear stress. According to the short-term and long-term analyses, a seasonal pattern in the fine deposit formation is expected.

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans↗
USGS2016

Processes of multibathyal aragonite undersaturation in the Arctic Ocean

During 3 years of study (2010–2012), the western Arctic Ocean was found to have unique aragonite saturation profiles with up to three distinct aragonite undersaturation zones. This complexity is produced as inflow of Atlantic-derived and Pacific-derived water masses mix with Arctic-derived waters, which are further modified by physiochemical and biological processes. The shallowest aragonite undersaturation zone, from the surface to ∼30 m depth is characterized by relatively low alkalinity and other dissolved ions. Besides local influence of biological processes on aragonite undersaturation of shallow coastal waters, the nature of this zone is consistent with dilution by sea-ice melt and invasion of anthropogenic CO 2 from the atmosphere. A second undersaturated zone at ∼90–220 m depth (salinity ∼31.8–35.4) occurs within the Arctic Halocline and is characterized by elevated p CO 2 and nutrients. The nature of this horizon is consistent with remineralization of organic matter on shallow continental shelves bordering the Canada Basin and the input of the nutrients and CO 2 entrained by currents from the Pacific Inlet. Finally, the deepest aragonite undersaturation zone is at greater than 2000 m depth and is controlled by similar processes as deep aragonite saturation horizons in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The comparatively shallow depth of this deepest aragonite saturation horizon in the Arctic is maintained by relatively low temperatures, and stable chemical composition. Understanding the mechanisms controlling the distribution of these aragonite undersaturation zones, and the time scales over which they operate will be crucial to refine predictive models.

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans↗
USGS2016

Barrier island breach evolution: Alongshore transport and bay-ocean pressure gradient interactions

Physical processes controlling repeated openings and closures of a barrier island breach between a bay and the open ocean are studied using aerial photographs and atmospheric and hydrodynamic observations. The breach site is located on Pea Island along the Outer Banks, separating Pamlico Sound from the Atlantic Ocean. Wind direction was a major control on the pressure gradients between the bay and the ocean to drive flows that initiate or maintain the breach opening. Alongshore sediment flux was found to be a major contributor to breach closure. During the analysis period from 2011 to 2016, three hurricanes had major impacts on the breach. First, Hurricane Irene opened the breach with wind-driven flow from bay to ocean in August 2011. Hurricane Sandy in October 2012 quadrupled the channel width from pressure gradient flows due to water levels that were first higher on the ocean side and then higher on the bay side. The breach closed sometime in Spring 2013, most likely due to an event associated with strong alongshore sediment flux but minimal ocean-bay pressure gradients. Then, in July 2014, Hurricane Arthur briefly opened the breach again from the bay side, in a similar fashion to Irene. In summary, opening and closure of breaches are shown to follow a dynamic and episodic balance between along-channel pressure gradient driven flows and alongshore sediment fluxes.

Pea Island↗
USGS2017

Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged in the surf zone

To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave-breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore-directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking-wave-driven-setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking-wave-driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore-directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans↗
USGS2017

Interactions of estuarine shoreline infrastructure with multiscale sea level variability

Sea level rise increases the risk of storms and other short‐term water‐rise events, because it sets a higher water level such that coastal surges become more likely to overtop protections and cause floods. To protect coastal communities, it is necessary to understand the interaction among multiday and tidal sea level variabilities, coastal infrastructure, and sea level rise. We performed a series of numerical simulations for San Francisco Bay to examine two shoreline scenarios and a series of short‐term and long‐term sea level variations. The two shoreline configurations include the existing topography and a coherent full‐bay containment that follows the existing land boundary with an impermeable wall. The sea level variability consists of a half‐meter perturbation, with duration ranging from 2 days to permanent (i.e., sea level rise). The extent of coastal flooding was found to increase with the duration of the high‐water‐level event. The nonlinear interaction between these intermediate scale events and astronomical tidal forcing only contributes ∼1% of the tidal heights; at the same time, the tides are found to be a dominant factor in establishing the evolution and diffusion of multiday high water events. Establishing containment at existing shorelines can change the tidal height spectrum up to 5%, and the impact of this shoreline structure appears stronger in the low‐frequency range. To interpret the spatial and temporal variability at a wide range of frequencies, Optimal Dynamic Mode Decomposition is introduced to analyze the coastal processes and an inverse method is applied to determine the coefficients of a 1‐D diffusion wave model that quantify the impact of bottom roughness, tidal basin geometry, and shoreline configuration on the high water events

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans↗
USGS2013

Integrating satellite observations and modern climate measurements with the recent sedimentary record: An example from Southeast Alaska

Assessments of climate change over time scales that exceed the last 100 years require robust integration of high-quality instrument records with high-resolution paleoclimate proxy data. In this study, we show that the recent biogenic sediments accumulating in two temperate ice-free fjords in Southeast Alaska preserve evidence of North Pacific Ocean climate variability as recorded by both instrument networks and satellite observations. Multicore samples EW0408-32MC and EW0408-43MC were investigated with 137 Cs and excess 210 Pb geochronometry, three-dimensional computed tomography, high-resolution scanning XRF geochemistry, and organic stable isotope analyses. EW0408-32MC (57.162°N, 135.357°W, 146 m depth) is a moderately bioturbated continuous record that spans AD ∼1930–2004. EW0408-43MC (56.965°N, 135.268°W, 91 m depth) is composed of laminated diatom oozes, a turbidite, and a hypopycnal plume (river flood) deposit. A discontinuous event-based varve chronology indicates 43MC spans AD ∼1940–1981. Decadal-scale fluctuations in sedimentary Br/Cl ratios accurately reflect changes in marine organic matter accumulation that display the same temporal pattern as that of the Pacific Decadal Oscillation. An estimated Sitka summer productivity parameter calibrated using SeaWiFS satellite observations support these relationships. The correlation of North Pacific climate regime states, primary productivity, and sediment geochemistry indicate the accumulation of biogenic sediment in Southeast Alaska temperate fjords can be used as a sensitive recorder of past productivity variability, and by inference, past climate conditions in the high-latitude Gulf of Alaska.

Alaska↗
USGS2011

Complex mean circulation over the inner shelf south of Martha's Vineyard revealed by observations and a high-resolution model

Inner-shelf circulation is governed by the interaction between tides, baroclinic forcing, winds, waves, and frictional losses; the mean circulation ultimately governs exchange between the coast and ocean. In some cases, oscillatory tidal currents interact with bathymetric features to generate a tidally rectified flow. Recent observational and modeling efforts in an overlapping domain centered on the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO) provided an opportunity to investigate the spatial and temporal complexity of circulation on the inner shelf. ADCP and surface radar observations revealed a mean circulation pattern that was highly variable in the alongshore and cross-shore directions. Nested modeling incrementally improved representation of the mean circulation as grid resolution increased and indicated tidal rectification as the generation mechanism of a counter-clockwise gyre near the MVCO. The loss of model skill with decreasing resolution is attributed to insufficient representation of the bathymetric gradients (Δh/h), which is important for representing nonlinear interactions between currents and bathymetry. The modeled momentum balance was characterized by large spatial variability of the pressure gradient and horizontal advection terms over short distances, suggesting that observed inner-shelf momentum balances may be confounded. Given the available observational and modeling data, this work defines the spatially variable mean circulation and its formation mechanism—tidal rectification—and illustrates the importance of model resolution for resolving circulation and constituent exchange near the coast. The results of this study have implications for future observational and modeling studies near the MVCO and other inner-shelf locations with alongshore bathymetric variability.

Massachusetts↗
USGS2018

Hydrodynamics and sediment mobility processes over a degraded senile coral reef

Coral reefs can influence hydrodynamics and morphodynamics by dissipating and refracting incident wave energy, modifying circulation patterns, and altering sediment transport pathways. In this study, the sediment and hydrodynamic response of a senile (dead) barrier reef (Crocker Reef, located in the upper portion of the Florida Reef Tract) to storms and quiescent conditions was evaluated using field observations and the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport model. Waves, circulation, and resultant sediment mobility were modeled across different reef zones. Sediment mobility during quiescent periods and the passage of far-field storms are driven by nonbreaking waves and, to a lesser degree, regional circulation. Spatial variability in these processes produces the present-day distribution of sediment grain size at Crocker Reef, wherein finer-grain material along a shallow central ridge is frequently mobilized (43% to 62% of the time), winnowed away, and deposited along the lower-energy flanks and in the fore reef where sand mobility occurs less frequently (32% to 43% and 1% to 22% of the time, respectively). Analysis of wave conditions for the period of 2006–2014 supports that wave heights rarely exceed the threshold for breaking (0.1% and 0.3% at the reef crest and at the reef flat, respectively), predominantly during the passage of tropical storms. There is a shift to a wave-breaking regime during near-field storms, creating the potential for mobilization of larger material and enhanced reef degradation. Sediment mobility can be enhanced due to wave skewness or the generation of free infragravity waves during periods of depth-induced wave breaking.

Florida↗
USGS2019

Hydrodynamic and morphologic response of a back-barrier estuary to an extratropical storm

We investigated the hydrodynamic and morphologic response of Barnegat Bay-Little Egg Harbor, New Jersey, USA to Hurricane Sandy. We implemented a three-dimensional, coupled ocean-wave-sediment transport model of the estuary and explored the role of offshore water levels, offshore waves, local winds and waves by systematically removing forcings from a series of simulations. Offshore water levels had the largest impact on water levels in the bay while waves and local wind forcing created substantial spatial variation along the longitudinal axis of the bay. The shape of the bay and its orientation relative to the storm track influenced the response to winds and restricted the maximum water levels in the northern bay and reduced the maximum volume of surge. Basin-average hydrodynamic residence time was reduced by 40%, though its typical spatial distribution remained during the storm. Wave and current-induced bed shear stress resuspended fine sediment resulting in net erosion from the shoals with ensuing net deposition over fringing low-lying land. The net sediment exchange between the bay and the ocean was several times smaller than the exchange at the peak of the storm resulting in negligible net change in the bay volume. Overall, our results suggest that water level responses are highly sensitive to the specific orientation of storm winds relative to the estuary, thereby limiting the utility of simple inundation models. The sediment transport patterns indicate that storms are an important mechanism for redistributing sediment from shoals to fringing wetlands, while net change to sediment budget can be negligible.

New Jersey↗
USGS2020

Using tracer variance decay to quantify variability of salinity mixing in the Hudson River Estuary

The salinity structure in an estuary is controlled by time‐dependent mixing processes. However, the locations and temporal variability of where significant mixing occurs is not well‐understood. Here we utilize a tracer variance approach to demonstrate the spatial and temporal structure of salinity mixing in the Hudson River Estuary. We run a 4‐month hydrodynamic simulation of the tides, currents, and salinity that captures the spring‐neap tidal variability as well as wind‐driven and freshwater flow events. On a spring‐neap time scale, salinity variance dissipation (mixing) occurs predominantly during the transition from neap to spring tides. On a tidal time scale, 60% of the salinity variance dissipation occurs during ebb tides and 40% during flood tides. Spatially, mixing during ebbs occurs primarily where lateral bottom salinity fronts intersect the bed at the transition from the main channel to adjacent shoals. During ebbs, these lateral fronts form seaward of constrictions located at multiple locations along the estuary. During floods, mixing is generated by a shear layer elevated in the water column at the top of the mixed bottom boundary layer, where variations in the along channel density gradients locally enhance the baroclinic pressure gradient leading to stronger vertical shear and more mixing. For both ebb and flood, the mixing occurs at the location of overlap of strong vertical stratification and eddy diffusivity, not at the maximum of either of those quantities. This understanding lends a new insight to the spatial and time dependence of the estuarine salinity structure.

Hudson River↗
USGS2021

Seasonal controls on sediment delivery and hydrodynamics in a vegetated tidally influenced interdistributary island

River deltas are maintained by a continuous supply of terrestrial sediments that provide critical land building material to help sustain and protect vulnerable ecological communities and serve as natural storm protection barriers. Local hydrodynamics are important in determining the degree to which fluvial sediments are removed from the water column and retained on the delta complex. During 2014, we measured hydrodynamics and sediment transport characteristics at one of the world's most rapidly prograding deltas, the Wax Lake delta in Louisiana, USA. We observed waves to be the dominant source of bottom stress for 70% of our observations. Sediment concentration tended to increase with shear stress, but only after stresses exceeded 0.01–0.02 Pa. Significant wave height and bottom stress were substantially reduced after June, when the emergence of American lotus ( Nelumbo lutea ) formed a dense canopy over the intertidal regions of the island splay. Hydrodynamics during these summer vegetated conditions were much more favorable to floc formation, and by extension particle settling, as shown by trends in the Kolmogorov microscale parameter over the course of the measurement campaign. Together, these findings suggest that the timing between peak river discharge and the emergence of vegetation may have a strong influence on rates of progradation in seasonally vegetated delta splays, whereby sediments delivered by flood events that extend late into summer may be governed by hydrodynamics that favor particle deposition, whereas those delivered prior to the summer may be more prone to remain in suspension and bypass the delta complex.

Louisiana↗
USGS2021

Persistent multidecadal variability since the 15th century in the southern Barents Sea derived from annually resolved shell-based records

In the North Atlantic Ocean, multidecadal variability in sea surface temperatures (SSTs) over the past several centuries has largely been inferred through terrestrial proxies and decadally resolved marine proxies. Annually resolved proxy records from marine archives provide valuable insight into this variability, but are especially rare from high latitude environments, particularly for centennial timescales. We constructed continuous, absolutely dated records of shell growth (1449–2014 CE; 564 years) and oxygen isotope ratios (δ 18 O shell ; 1539–2014 CE; 476 years) from shells of the bivalve Arctica islandica from coastal northern Norway, a location sensitive to large-scale North Atlantic Ocean dynamics. An annual (January–December) SST reconstruction derived from δ 18 O shell for the past five centuries suggests an increase of at least 2°C from the mid-18th century to 2014. The SST reconstruction correlates significantly with instrumental records and with other proxy reconstructions in the southern Barents Sea region. Spectral analysis of the shell growth and isotope records supports evidence for Atlantic multidecadal variability (65–80 year periodicity) extending into polar and subpolar latitudes for the past five centuries. These results provide additional evidence that multidecadal variability in SSTs are a persistent feature of the North Atlantic marine system.

Greenland Sea, Iceland Sea, Norwegian Sea, Barents↗
USGS2021

Distinguishing between regression model fits to global mean sea level reconstructions

Global mean sea level (GMSL) has been rising since the last century, posing a serious challenge for the coastal areas. A variety of regression models have been utilized for determining GMSL rise over the past one hundred years, resulting in a large spread of sea level rise rates and multidecadal variations. In this study, we develop a new nonparametric noise model that is data-dependent and considers overfitting due to regression. The noise model is used to determine whether one regression model has significantly better skill than others over the period 1900–2010. The choices of background noise and GMSL reconstruction influence whether two sea level models can be statistically distinguished. With our new nonparametric noise spectra, the differences of model skills in explaining sea level variance are significant only in 34% of model comparisons. However, stepwise trends with three inflection points are significantly more skillful than the linear, quadratic, or exponential trend for most GMSL reconstructions, suggesting the importance of multidecadal variability of sea level rise in the twentieth century. Nevertheless, stepwise trend models cannot be distinguished from models with a long-term harmonic oscillation, indicating that the shape of multidecadal variability is not conclusive. The multidecadal variability is also significant in the steric and barystatic sea level contributions and is related to both natural and anthropogenic forcings. GMSL predictions based on regression fits in the twentieth century underestimate the sea level rise rate over the period 2011–2020 because the sea level acceleration in the recent decade (2011–2020) is not well represented.

Journal of Geophysical Research- Oceans↗
USGS2021

Hydrate formation on marine seep bubbles and the implications for water column methane dissolution

Methane released from seafloor seeps contributes to a number of benthic, water column, and atmospheric processes. At seafloor seeps within the methane hydrate stability zone, crystalline gas hydrate shells can form on methane bubbles while the bubbles are still in contact with the seafloor or as the bubbles begin ascending through the water column. These shells reduce methane dissolution rates, allowing hydrate-coated bubbles to deliver methane to shallower depths in the water column than hydrate-free bubbles. Here, we analyze seafloor videos from six deepwater seep sites associated with a diverse range of bubble-release processes involving hydrate formation. Bubbles that grow rapidly are often hydrate-free when released from the seafloor. As bubble growth slows and seafloor residence time increases, a hydrate coating can form on the bubble's gas-water interface, fully coating most bubbles within ∼10 s of the onset of hydrate formation at the seafloor. This finding agrees with water-column observations that most bubbles become hydrate-coated after their initial ∼150 cm of rise, which takes about 10 s. Whether a bubble is coated or not at the seafloor affects how much methane a bubble contains and how quickly that methane dissolves during the bubble's rise through the water column. A simplified model shows that, after rising 150 cm above the seafloor, a bubble that grew a hydrate shell before releasing from the seafloor will have ∼5% more methane than a bubble of initial equal volume that did not grow a hydrate shell after it traveled to the same height.

Journal of Geophysical Research - Oceans↗
USGS2024

Modeled coastal-ocean pathways of land-sourced contaminants in the aftermath of Hurricane Florence

Extreme precipitation during Hurricane Florence, which made landfall in North Carolina in September 2018, led to breaches of hog waste lagoons, coal ash pits, and wastewater facilities. In the weeks following the storm, freshwater discharge carried pollutants, sediment, organic matter, and debris to the coastal ocean, contributing to beach closures, algae blooms, hypoxia, and other ecosystem impacts. Here, the ocean pathways of land-sourced contaminants following Hurricane Florence are investigated using the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) with a river point source with fixed water properties from a hydrologic model (WRF-Hydro) of the Cape Fear River Basin, North Carolina's largest watershed. Patterns of contaminant transport in the coastal ocean are quantified with a finite duration tracer release based on observed flooding of agricultural and industrial facilities. A suite of synthetic events also was simulated to investigate the sensitivity of the river plume transport pathways to river discharge and wind direction. The simulated Hurricane Florence discharge event led to westward (downcoast) transport of contaminants in a coastal current, along with intermittent storage and release of material in an offshore (bulge) or eastward (upcoast) region near the river mouth, modulated by alternating upwelling and downwelling winds. The river plume patterns led to a delayed onset and long duration of contaminants affecting beaches 100 km to the west, days to weeks after the storm. Maps of the onset and duration of hypothetical water quality hazards for a range of weather conditions may provide guidance to managers on the timing of swimming/shellfishing advisories and water quality sampling.

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans↗
USGS2023

Bayesian hierarchical modeling for probabilistic estimation of tsunami amplitude from far-field earthquake sources

Evaluation of tsunami disaster risk for a coastal region requires reliable estimation of tsunami hazard, for example, wave amplitude close to the shore. Observed tsunami data are scarce and have poor spatial coverage, and for this reason probabilistic tsunami hazard analysis (PTHA) traditionally relies on numerical simulation of “synthetic” tsunami generation and propagation toward the coast. Such an approach has been extensively studied in the past and it is widely recognized as an important disaster-risk mitigation tool. PTHA can not only provide less uncertain and spatially coherent hazard estimates in comparison with classical empirical data analysis which is restricted at the tide gauge stations, but also local inundation information. In this paper, we explore a purely statistical alternative to traditional PTHA for evaluation of tsunami amplitude hazard. Here, we use tide gauge measurements of tsunami amplitude along the western United States, specifically California and Oregon, and develop a spatial Bayesian hierarchical model (BHM) to assess tsunami hazard from far-field earthquake sources at various recurrence intervals. The configuration of our model incorporates latent Gaussian fields that utilize information on the distance between tide gauges as well as on the continental shelf width, that is, a covariate linked to potential dissipative effects on wave energy as the tsunami travels over shallow water. Through our BHM, we produce spatially continuous probabilistic maps of far-field tsunami hazard which can aid comprehensive tsunami disaster risk reduction and management.

California, Oregon, Washington↗
USGS2012

The structure of subtidal currents within and around Lydonia Canyon: Evidence for enhanced cross-shelf fluctuations over the mouth of the canyon

Between October 1980 and April 1981, currents were measured within Lydonia Canyon and on the adjacent shelf and slope. The amplitude of the subtidal currents over the shelf and slope ranged between 10 and 30 cm s −1 , but within the canyon, they were typically smaller than 5 cm s −1 . The subtidal currents had well-defined spatial structures over the shelf and the slope and in the middle and outer portions of the canyon. The along-isobath flow over the shelf and slope was unaltered by the canyon. Currents within the canyon and just above it were driven up and down the canyon by the cross-shelf pressure gradient in geostrophic equilibrium with the along-shelf flow. The measurements suggest that the Coriolis force on the cross-canyon flow, turbulent Reynolds stresses, and acceleration of the along-canyon flow balanced the imposed pressure gradient for flow near the rim of Lydonia Canyon. The Coriolis force was not important in the deeper portions of the canyon, where baroclinic adjustments of the density field began to be an important factor in the momentum balance. A simple model indicates that the magnitude of the horizontal turbulent viscosity coefficient for subtidal flow in this narrow canyon is 10 6 to 10 7 cm 2 s −1 . The mixing indicated by the large amplitude of the viscosity coefficient was probably caused by the strong tidal currents present within Lydonia Canyon. On the shelf, along-isobath currents were locally driven by the large-scale component of the wind field; along-shelf currents were equally correlated with local winds and with winds from sites 700 km northeast of Lydonia Canyon. Wind stress was not correlated with currents over the slope in water deeper than 450 m or with currents within the canyon.

Journal of Geophysical Research - Oceans↗
USGS2021

A numerical study of wave-driven mean flows and setup dynamics at a coral reef-lagoon system

Two-dimensional mean wave-driven flow and setup dynamics were investigated at a reef-lagoon system at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, using the numerical wave-flow model, SWASH. Phase-resolved numerical simulations of the wave and flow fields, validated with highly detailed field observations (including >10 sensors through the energetic surf zone), were used to quantify the main mechanisms that govern the mean momentum balances and resulting mean current and setup patterns, with particular attention to the role of nonlinear wave shapes. Momentum balances from the phase-resolved model indicated that onshore flows near the reef crest were primarily driven by the wave force (dominated by radiation stress gradients) due to intense breaking, whereas the flow over the reef flat and inside the lagoon and channels was primarily driven by a pressure gradient. Wave setup inside the lagoon was primarily controlled by the wave force and bottom stress. The bottom stress reduced the setup on the reef flat and inside the lagoon. Excluding the bottom stress contribution in the setup balance resulted in an over prediction of the wave-setup inside the lagoon by up to 200–370%. The bottom stress was found to be caused by the combined presence of onshore directed wave-driven currents and (nonlinear) waves. Exclusion of the bottom stress contribution from nonlinear wave shapes led to an over prediction of the setup inside the lagoon by approximately 20–40%. The inclusion of the nonlinear wave shape contribution to the bottom stress term was found to be particularly relevant in reef regions that experience a net onshore mass flux over the reef crest.

Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans↗