SEARCH · Geology Reports

Results for “JGR Oceans”

Search indexed USGS publications on groundwater, aquifers, geologic maps, mineral resources and earthquakes. Explore source records by subject and place.

SourceResearch connectionFrom yearThrough year

Quote a phrase for an exact phrase match. Source license links do not imply unrestricted reuse.

At least 19 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2025

Wind pumping dominates landward salt transport in a weakly tidal estuary

In tidally energetic estuaries, salinity dynamics vary with tidal forcing as well as factors such as river discharge and bathymetry. However, in weakly tidal estuaries, mechanisms governing salt transport remain poorly understood. Here, we investigate salt transport processes in a weakly tidal estuary, Albemarle Sound on the U.S. East Coast, using a deterministic numerical model. In 2022, the volume averaged salinity of Albemarle Sound ranged from ∼2 to 10 psu. Although seasonal river discharge typically induces gradual salinity changes of less than 1 psu per month, four wind events caused sharp salinity increases of 1–2 psu within just a few days. We find that wind pumping, defined as the net salt transport due to temporal correlations between velocity and salinity associated with wind events, is the dominant mechanism contributing to these episodic increases in volume averaged salinity. In Albemarle Sound, wind pumping operates on timescales of several days, which is longer than the tidal timescale, and occurs intermittently throughout the year rather than following a regular repetitive pattern. Our analysis suggests that salt transport by wind pumping is typically an order of magnitude larger than by gravitational circulation and serves as the primary mechanism balancing salt loss from river flow. Isolating wind pumping requires averaging over variability of multiple days, longer than typical tidal averaging. Wind pumping likely also controls material exchange with coastal ocean, influencing biogeochemical processes in the estuary. This mechanism may be important in other systems with similar characteristics, particularly in coastal lagoons with multiple subembayments.

North Carolina↗

USGS2021

The contribution of currents, sea-swell waves, and infragravity waves to suspended-sediment transport across a coral reef-lagoon system.

Coral reefs generate substantial volumes of carbonate sediment, which is redistributed throughout the reef‐lagoon system. However, there is little understanding of the specific processes that transport this sediment produced on the outer portions of coral reefs throughout a reef‐lagoon system. Furthermore, the separate contributions of currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves to transport, which are all strongly influenced by the presence of a reef, is not fully understood. Here, we show that in reef‐lagoon systems most suspended sediment is transported close to the seabed and can, at times, be suspended higher in the water column during oscillatory flow transitions (i.e., near slack flow) at sea‐swell wave frequencies, and during the peak onshore oscillatory velocity phase at infragravity wave frequencies. While these wave frequencies contribute to the transport of suspended sediment offshore and onshore, respectively, the net flux is small. Mean currents are the primary transport mechanism and responsible for almost 2 orders of magnitude more suspended‐sediment flux than sea‐swell and infragravity waves. Whilst waves may not be the primary mechanism for the transport of sediment, our results suggest they are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed, as well as contributing to the partitioning of sediment grain sizes from the reef to the shoreline. As the ocean wave climate changes, sea level rises, and the composition of reef benthic communities change, the relative importance of mean currents, sea‐swell waves, and infragravity waves is likely to change, and this will affect how sediment is redistributed throughout reef‐lagoon systems.

Ningaloo Reef↗

USGS2026

Short-term estuarine phytoplankton dynamics in response to hurricanes along the Gulf Coast of America: A Variational Autoencoder (VAE) approach with satellite and bio-optical observations

Hurricanes drive diverse estuarine phytoplankton responses and can trigger cascading ecological and physicochemical impacts. Capturing these short-term dynamics requires high spatiotemporal resolution. Here, we applied a globally-applicable coastal ocean color algorithm, Variational Autoencoder (VAE), to Sentinel-2 MSI imagery for chlorophyll- a (Chl- a ) estimation and validated its strong performance across the northern Gulf coast of America (GoA) estuaries, including Galveston Bay (TX), Barataria-Terrebonne Estuary (LA), Apalachicola Estuary (FL) and Tampa Bay (FL). The test set showed strong performance (MAE: 1.44 mg m −3 ; RMSE: 17.7 mg m −3 ; slope: 0.86; median symmetric accuracy: 30.33%). The validated VAE was then applied to 76 Sentinel-2 MSI images to assess phytoplankton biomass responses to hurricanes Harvey (2017), Michael (2018), Ida (2021), Francine (2024), Helene (2024), and Milton (2024) in the GoA estuaries. Results showed that hurricane disturbances on Chl- a typically lasted 3–5 weeks. Estuarine waters west (left) of hurricane tracks showed a rapid decline in Chl- a (∼5 mg m −3 ) due to elevated turbidity from heavy rainfall, and wind-driven flushing in the estuary, followed by a rebound over about two weeks, with Chl- a increasing approximately 10–15 mg m −3 above pre-storm levels. In contrast, right-side waters showed a slower response, likely from oligotrophic seawater intrusion driven by the hurricane's counterclockwise rotation. Post-storm observations showed increased freshwater phytoplankton like chlorophytes and cyanobacteria dominating estuaries, while shelf-waters exhibited elevated dinoflagellates (e.g., Karenia brevis bloom after Hurricane Milton). These results highlight the spatial heterogeneity of hurricane impacts on estuarine phytoplankton dynamics, which may trigger cascading effects on biogeochemical cycling and food webs, potentially prolonging ecosystem recovery.

Alabama, Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas↗

USGS2019

Morphodynamic resilience of intertidal mudflats on a seasonal time scale

Intertidal mudflats are morphodynamic features present in many estuaries worldwide. Often located between vegetated shores and deep channels they comprise valuable ecosystems and serve to protect the hinterland by attenuating waves. Although mudflats are persistently present on yearly to decadal time scales, little is known on their morphodynamic adaptation to short‐term variations in forcing such as storms, spring‐neap tidal cycles, and sediment supply. This study aims to explore the morphodynamic resilience of mudflats to seasonal variations in forcing. First, we compare transects observed in South Bay, California, at 3‐ to 6‐monthly intervals. Second, we present the results of a process‐based, morphodynamic profile model (Mflat). Mflat is an open source, Matlab code that describes both cross‐shore and alongshore tidal hydrodynamics as well as a stationary wave model. An advection‐diffusion equation solves sediment transport while bed level changes occur by the divergence of the sediment transport field. Mflat reproduces the observed South San Francisco Bay profile in equilibrium with significant skill. Short‐term variations in hydrodynamic forcing and sediment characteristics disturb the profile mainly at the channel‐shoal edge. The modeled profile disturbance is consistent with observations. The modeled profile is remarkably resilient since it recovers to the equilibrium profile within weeks to months. The model results suggest that 3‐monthly observation intervals are probably too long to discriminate processes responsible for the profile disturbance. These processes may include variations in sediment supply, mudflat erodibility, and wave action as well as the spring‐neap tidal cycle.

California↗

USGS2020

Challenges in quantifying air-water carbon dioxide flux using estuarine water quality data: Case study for Chesapeake Bay

Estuaries play an uncertain but potentially important role in the global carbon cycle via CO 2 outgassing. The uncertainty mainly stems from the paucity of studies that document the full spatial and temporal variability of estuarine surface water partial pressure of carbon dioxide ( p CO 2 ). Here, we explore the potential of utilizing the abundance of pH data from historical water quality monitoring programs to fill the data void via a case study of the mainstem Chesapeake Bay (eastern United States). We calculate p CO 2 and the air-water CO 2 flux at monthly resolution from 1998 to 2018 from tidal fresh to polyhaline waters, paying special attention to the error estimation. The biggest error is due to the pH measurement error, and errors due to the gas transfer velocity, temporal sampling, the alkalinity mixing model, and the organic alkalinity estimation are 72%, 27%, 15%, and 5%, respectively, of the error due to pH. Seasonal, interannual, and spatial variability in the air-water flux and surface p CO 2 is high, and a correlation analysis with oxygen reveals that this variability is driven largely by biological processes. Averaged over 1998–2018, the mainstem bay is a weak net source of CO 2 to the atmosphere of 1.2 (1.1, 1.4) mol m −2 yr −1 (best estimate and 95% confidence interval). Our findings suggest that the abundance of historical pH measurements in estuaries around the globe should be mined in order to constrain the large spatial and temporal variability of the CO 2 exchange between estuaries and the atmosphere.

Maryland, Virginia↗

USGS2022

Wave-driven hydrodynamic processes over fringing reefs with varying slopes, depths, and roughness: Implications for coastal protection

Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs is effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave-driven water levels at the shoreline. Laboratory flume experiments and a multi-layer phase-resolving nonhydrostatic wave-flow model, which includes a canopy model to predict drag forces generated by roughness elements, were used to investigate the wave-driven water levels on fringing reefs. Though the model is capable of three dimensional simulations, consistent with the laboratory study, a two-dimensional vertical mode was used. In contrast to many previous studies, both the laboratory experiment and the numerical model account for the effects of large bottom roughness. The numerical model reproduced the observations of the wave transformation and runup over both smooth and rough reef profiles. The numerical model was then extended to quantify the influence of reef geometry and compared to simulations of plane beaches lacking a reef. For a set offshore forcing condition, the fore-reef slope controlled wave runup on reef fronted beaches, whereas the beach slope controlled wave runup on plane beaches. As a result, the coastal protection utility of reefs is dependent on these slopes. For our examples, with a fore-reef slope of 1/5 and a 500 m prototype reef flat length, a beach slope of ~1/30 marked the transition between the reef providing runup reduction for steeper beach slopes and enhancing wave runup for milder slopes. Roughness coverage, spacing, dimensions, and drag coefficient were investigated with results indicating the greatest runup reductions were due to tall roughness elements on the reef flat.

JGR Oceans↗

USGS2023

Dynamics of the wave-driven circulation in the lee of nearshore reefs

Nearshore rocky reefs with scales of order 10–100 m are common along the world's coastline and often shape wave-driven hydrodynamics and shoreline morphology in their lee. The interaction of waves with these reefs generally results in either two or four-cell mean circulation systems (2CC and 4CC, respectively), with diverging flows behind the reefs and at the shoreline in the 2CC case and flows that diverge in the lee and converge at the shoreline in the 4CC case. By applying a phase-resolving wave-flow model to conduct a detailed analysis of mean momentum balances for waves interacting with nearshore reefs, we develop an understanding of the drivers of 2CC and 4CC flow dynamics and how they vary for different reef geometries and wave and water level conditions. The 2CC or 4CC patterns were primarily driven by alongshore pressure gradients toward the exposed (nonreef fronted) or reef-fronted beach. These alongshore pressure gradients were dependent on the cross-shore setup dynamics governed by the balance between pressure (i.e., related to the setup) and radiation stress gradients, and mean bottom stresses exerted on the water column. If shoreline wave setup in the lee of the reef was less than the exposed beach, a 4CC pattern developed with convergent flow at the shoreline in the lee of the reef; otherwise, a 2CC emerged with divergent flow at the shoreline. Across the parameter space investigated, reef roughness, distance to the shoreline, and beach slope were the three parameters most likely to change the flow patterns between 2CC and 4CC.

JGR-Oceans↗

USGS2024

Large eddy simulation of cross-shore hydrodynamics under random waves in the inner surf and swash zones

A 3D large eddy simulation coupled with a free surface tracking scheme was used to simulate cross-shore hydrodynamics as observed in a large wave flume experiment. The primary objective was to enhance the understanding of wave-backwash interactions and the implications for observed morphodynamics. Two simulation cases were carried out to elucidate key processes of wave-backwash interactions across two distinct stages: berm erosion and sandbar formation, during the early portion of a modeled storm. The major difference between the two cases was the bathymetry: one featuring a berm without a sandbar (Case I), and the other, featuring a sandbar without a berm (Case II) at similar water depth. Good agreement (overall Willmott's index of agreement greater than 0.8) between simulations and measured data in free surface elevation, wave spectrum, and flow velocities validated the model skill. The findings indicated that the bottom shear stress, represented by the Shields parameter, was significant in both cases, potentially contributing substantial sediment transport. Notably, the occurrence of intense wave-backwash interactions were more frequent in the absence of a sandbar. These intense wave-backwash interactions resulted in a pronounced horizontal pressure gradient, quantified by high Sleath parameters, exceeding the criteria for momentary bed failure. Additionally, a more vigorous turbulence-bed interaction, characterized by near-bed turbulent kinetic energy, was observed in the case lacking a sandbar, potentially augmenting sediment suspension. These insights are pivotal in understanding the mechanisms underlying berm erosion and how sandbar formation serves to protect further beach erosion.

JGR Oceans↗

USGS2026

Global primary and secondary microseism multi-decade geographic variation, secular intensification, and period lengthening

Earth's long-period background seismic wavefield is dominated by two distinct processes that couple ocean wave energy to a global microseism wavefield. We assess global microseism intensity in the secondary (4–10 s) and primary (14–20 s) bands, and across eight 2 s-wide period bands between 4 and 20 s. Robustly estimated primary and secondary secular amplitude trends are estimated at 73 globally distributed seismic station sites with continuous recording spanning at least 20 years, from as early as the late 1980s through October 2025. These trends are positive at 3⁢𝜎 significance for 61 (84%) and 46 (63%) stations with global average rates for vertical-component acceleration of 0.17 ± 0.04 and 0.11 ± 0.05%/yr, for the primary and secondary bands, respectively, with corresponding rates of energy increase of 0.27 ± 0.08 and 0.15 ± 0.09%/yr. Secular intensification is also observed within all 2 s period bands between 4 and 20 s. Amplitude histories for the longest primary microseism periods (18–20 s) correlate to near-antipodal distances, reflecting long-range teleconnections attributed to large-fetch storm systems, long-range swell and Rayleigh wave propagation, and geographically correlated El Niño Southern Oscillation and other geographically extensive atmospheric influences on storms and waves. The lower average rates of intensification for the secondary microseism suggest that crossing wave systems in remote regions are either under-observed or are intensifying more slowly than the primary microseism, possibly due to increasing swell unidirectionality. Secular intensification is greatest at the longest primary microseism periods. This is consistent with a broadening of the global ocean wave spectrum by approximately 0.01%/yr which may reflect an increasing occurrence of large storm systems.

JGR Solid Earth↗

USGS2025

A high-resolution 3-D P-wave velocity structure of the south-central Cascadia subduction zone from wide-angle shore-crossing seismic refraction data

This study addresses a significant gap in understanding the features of the south-central Cascadia subduction zone, a region characterized by complex geologic, tectonic, and seismic transitions both offshore and onshore. Unlike other segments along this margin, this area lacks a 3-D velocity model to delineate its structural and geological features on a fine scale. To address this void, we developed a high-resolution 3-D P-wave velocity model using active source seismic data from ship-borne seismic shots recorded on temporary and permanent onshore seismic stations and ocean-bottom seismometers. Our model shows velocity variations across the region with distinct velocity-depth profiles for the Siletz, Franciscan, and Klamath terranes in the overlying plate. We identified seaward dipping high-velocity static backstops associated with the Siletz and Klamath terranes, situated near the shoreline and further inland, respectively. Regions of reduced crustal velocity are associated with crustal faults. Moreover, there is significant along-strike depth variation in the subducting slab, which is about 4 km deeper near the thick, dense Siletz terrane and becomes shallower near the predominantly less-dense Franciscan terrane. This highlights a sudden tectonic and geologic transition at the southern boundary of the Siletz terrane. Our velocity model also indicates slightly increased hydration, though still minimal, in both the oceanic crust and the upper mantle of the subducting plate compared to other parts of the margin.

British Columbia, California, Oregon, Washington↗

USGS2014

Inundation of a barrier island (Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, USA) during a hurricane: Observed water-level gradients and modeled seaward sand transport

Large geomorphic changes to barrier islands may occur during inundation, when storm surge exceeds island elevation. Inundation occurs episodically and under energetic conditions that make quantitative observations difficult. We measured water levels on both sides of a barrier island in the northern Chandeleur Islands during inundation by Hurricane Isaac. Wind patterns caused the water levels to slope from the bay side to the ocean side for much of the storm. Modeled geomorphic changes during the storm were very sensitive to the cross-island slopes imposed by water-level boundary conditions. Simulations with equal or landward sloping water levels produced the characteristic barrier island storm response of overwash deposits or displaced berms with smoother final topography. Simulations using the observed seaward sloping water levels produced cross-barrier channels and deposits of sand on the ocean side, consistent with poststorm observations. This sensitivity indicates that accurate water-level boundary conditions must be applied on both sides of a barrier to correctly represent the geomorphic response to inundation events. More broadly, the consequence of seaward transport is that it alters the relationship between storm intensity and volume of landward transport. Sand transported to the ocean side may move downdrift, or aid poststorm recovery by moving onto the beach face or closing recent breaches, but it does not contribute to island transgression or appear as an overwash deposit in the back-barrier stratigraphic record. The high vulnerability of the Chandeleur Islands allowed us to observe processes that are infrequent but may be important at other barrier islands.

Louisiana↗

USGS2023

A model integrating satellite-derived shoreline observations for predicting fine-scale shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise across large coastal regions

Satellite-derived shoreline observations combined with dynamic shoreline models enable fine-scale predictions of coastal change across large spatiotemporal scales. Here, we present a satellite-data-assimilated, “littoral-cell”-based, ensemble Kalman-filter shoreline model to predict coastal change and uncertainty due to waves, sea-level rise (SLR), and other natural and anthropogenic processes. We apply the developed ensemble model to the entire California coastline (approximately 1,760 km), much of which is sparsely monitored with traditional survey methods (e.g., Lidar/GPS). Water-level-corrected, satellite-derived shoreline observations (obtained from the CoastSat toolbox) offer a nearly unbiased representation of in situ surveyed shorelines (e.g., mean sea-level elevation contours) at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. We demonstrate that model calibration with satellite observations during a 20-year hindcast period (1995–2015) provides nearly equivalent model forecast accuracy during a validation period (2015–2020) compared to model calibration with monthly in situ observations at Ocean Beach. When comparing model-predicted shoreline positions to satellite-derived observations, the model achieves an accuracy of <10 m RMSE for nearly half of the entire California coastline for the validation period. The calibrated/validated model is then applied for multi-decadal simulations of shoreline change due to projected wave and sea-level conditions, while holding the model parameters fixed. By 2100, the model estimates that 24%–75% of California's beaches may become completely eroded due to SLR scenarios of 1.0–3.0 m, respectively. The satellite-data-assimilated modeling system presented here is generally applicable to a variety of coastal settings around the world owing to the global coverage of satellite imagery.

JGR Earth Surface↗

USGS2026

Tectonic controls on volcanism and associated hydrothermal activity in a sediment-dominated mid-ocean ridge; Escanaba Trough

Mid-ocean ridges, the Earth's most extensive volcanic system, exhibit unique characteristics in sediment-dominant environments. Thick sediment cover insulates the crust and channels fluid along pathways that can lead to the formation of distinct crustal alteration patterns, exceptionally large mineral deposits, and specialized chemosynthetic ecosystems. This study presents an interdisciplinary investigation into the tectonics of the Escanaba Trough, a heavily sedimented axial valley at the southern Gorda Ridge in the Northeast Pacific Ocean. A primary challenge in such environments is overcoming the masking effect of thick sediments on basement structures that control magmatic and hydrothermal activity. We address this by employing three-dimensional (3D) magnetic modeling of high-resolution near-seafloor magnetic data collected by an autonomous underwater vehicle (AUV). The 2022 surveys with AUV Sentry provided data for 3D magnetic susceptibility models, refining our understanding of the geometry of sub-sediment laccoliths/saucer-shaped sills and hydrothermal alteration. In conjunction with a new 1:100,000 scale lithostratigraphic map, we outline the tectonic controls on the emplacement of Escanaba Trough's three main volcanic centers, characterize the geometry of its spreading segments, and provide volumetric data on the distribution of sub-sediment volcanism in the southern Gorda Ridge.

Escanaba Trough, Pacific Ocean↗

USGS2022

Modeling of barrier breaching during Hurricanes Sandy and Matthew

Physical processes driving barrier island change during storms are important to understand to mitigate coastal hazards and to evaluate conceptual models for barrier evolution. Spatial variations in barrier island topography, landcover characteristics, and nearshore and back-barrier hydrodynamics can yield complex morphological change that requires models of increasing resolution and physical complexity to predict. Using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system, we investigated two barrier island breaches that occurred on Fire Island, NY during Hurricane Sandy (2012) and at Matanzas, FL during Hurricane Matthew (2016). The model employed a recently implemented infragravity (IG) wave driver to represent the important effects of IG waves on nearshore water levels and sediment transport. The model simulated breaching and other changes with good skill at both locations, resolving differences in the processes and evolution. The breach simulated at Fire Island was 250 m west of the observed breach, whereas the breach simulated at Matanzas was within 100 m of the observed breach. Implementation of the vegetation module of COAWST to allow three-dimensional drag over dune vegetation at Fire Island improved model skill by decreasing flows across the back-barrier, as opposed to varying bottom roughness that did not positively alter model response. Analysis of breach processes at Matanzas indicated that both far-field and local hydrodynamics influenced breach creation and evolution, including remotely generated waves and surge, but also surge propagation through back-barrier waterways. This work underscores the importance of resolving the complexity of nearshore and back-barrier systems when predicting barrier island change during extreme events.

Florida, New York↗

USGS2021

Dissolved Fe supply to the central Gulf of Alaska is inferred to be derived from Alaskan glacial dust that is not resolved by dust transport models

Re-examination of previously published dissolved iron time-series data from Ocean Station Papa in the central Gulf of Alaska (GoA) reveals 33-70% increases in the dissolved iron inventories occurring between September and February of successive years, implying a source of Fe to this region during autumn or early winter. Because I can virtually rule out many possible iron sources at this time of year, I suggest Alaskan glacial dust is the likely iron source. Large plumes of such dust are known to be generated regularly in the autumn by anomalous offshore winds and channelled through mountain gaps, simultaneously from several locations spanning ∼1000 km of the northern Gulf of Alaska coastline. Large dust flux events occur when below-freezing, low-humidity air temperatures persist for many days during the autumn. I suggest that existing state-of-the-art global dust models fail to reproduce this Alaskan dust flux because the model spatial resolution is too coarse to resolve the high winds through the narrow mountain gaps that generate the dust. Future work that could help to confirm this Fe source to the central GoA includes time-series profiles of iron concentrations, and ancillary information from sensor-equipped profiling floats. If this mechanism of Fe supply to the central GoA were confirmed, it would imply this Alaskan dust is transported ≥ 1100 km from the coast, more than twice as far as has been visually documented from satellite observations.

Alaska↗

USGS2023

Sound-side inundation and seaward erosion of a barrier island during hurricane landfall

Barrier islands are especially vulnerable to hurricanes and other large storms, owing to their mobile composition, low elevations, and detachment from the mainland. Conceptual models of barrier-island evolution emphasize ocean-side processes that drive landward migration through overwash, inlet migration, and aeolian transport. In contrast, we found that the impact of Hurricane Dorian (2019) on North Core Banks, a 36-km barrier island on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, was primarily driven by inundation of the island from Pamlico Sound, as evidenced by storm-surge model results and observations of high-water marks and wrack lines. Analysis of photogrammetry products from aerial imagery collected before and after the storm indicate the loss of about 18% of the subaerial volume of the island through the formation of over 80 erosional washout channels extending from the marsh and washover platform, through gaps in the foredunes, to the shoreline. The washout channels were largely co-located with washover fans deposited by earlier events. Net seaward export of sediment resulted in the formation of deltaic bars offshore of the channels, which became part of the post-storm berm recovery by onshore bar migration and partial filling of the washouts with washover deposits within 2 months. This event represents a volumetric setback in the overwash/rollover behavior required for barrier transgression, but the new ponds and lowland habitats may provide beneficial habit for endangered species and will likely persist for years.

North Carolina↗

USGS2025

Numerical simulation of sound-side barrier-island inundation and breaching during Hurricane Dorian (2019)

Hurricane-induced morphological changes and associated community hazards along sandy, barrier-island coastlines have been studied primarily from the perspective of ocean-side attack by storm-driven ocean surge and large waves. Thus, our understanding of long-term barrier island morphological change focuses on beach erosion, overwash, and inlet formation. In contrast, outwash events with inundation from the sound side, such as one that occurred in Cape Lookout National Seashore, North Carolina, USA during Hurricane Dorian (September 2019), are understudied. Studying such events can improve understanding of barrier island response and stability for a broader range of conditions. Here, we model the hydrodynamics and morphological evolution of a barrier island using a coupled wave-current-sediment transport modeling system. Wind-driven surge in Pamlico Sound led to overtopping from the sound side, which eroded outwash channels and transported sediment seaward into the nearshore. Simulations reproduce the channel features observed with aerial imagery and provide information not available from the remote-sensing observations, including channel depths (>2 m) and the fate of the eroded sand. We found that >99% of the eroded sand was deposited in the nearshore, within 1,000 m of the shoreline in depths <10 m, suggesting that the deposited sediment remains available for littoral transport and beach recovery. Simulations with combinations of coarse or fine sediment and vegetated or unvegetated landcover indicate that channel position did not vary with grain size or vegetation, while volume of erosion and channel morphology were more responsive to variations in grain size and less responsive to presence of vegetation.

North Carolina↗

USGS2025

Outwash events inhibit vegetation recovery and prolong coastal vulnerability

Overwash, when high ocean water levels and waves flood a coastline, is a common phenomenon that can lead to washover deposits and barrier rollover. Outwash, by contrast, involves seaward flow, often driven by high back-barrier water levels, and can produce washout channels and nearshore deposition. Our observations show that washout channels were quickly (days to weeks) filled and reshaped into beaches, berms, and washover deposits and ponds often formed at the landward ends. However, there was a significant delay in revegetation of former washout areas compared with washover areas. North Core Banks, North Carolina, was affected by repeat hurricanes in different ways: Hurricane Florence (2018) deposited large washover fans 0.5–1 m thick, and Hurricane Dorian (2019) removed 1–4 m of sediment from washout channels. Aerial surveys captured vegetation recolonization on the Florence washover fans within a year but, after Dorian, surveys showed that although the washout channels and ponds quickly filled with marine sand, the channel throats and new washover platforms remained mostly unvegetated for five years. New vegetation growth was associated with the washout ponds and was characteristic of low-elevation hydrophilic environments. We observed comparable outcomes at washout and washover locations on the coasts of Texas and New York and suggest that outwash interrupts the normal cycle of vegetation and dune growth that is key to rebuilding barrier islands after storms. The lack of vegetation in the former washout channels prolongs vulnerability to overwash, further delaying recovery. Our findings have implications for best-management practices and modeling of coastal geomorphic evolution.

JGR Earth Surface↗