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Wind pumping dominates landward salt transport in a weakly tidal estuary

In tidally energetic estuaries, salinity dynamics vary with tidal forcing as well as factors such as river discharge and bathymetry. However, in weakly tidal estuaries, mechanisms governing salt transport remain poorly understood. Here, we investigate salt transport processes in a weakly tidal estuary, Albemarle Sound on the U.S. East Coast, using a deterministic numerical model. In 2022, the volume averaged salinity of Albemarle Sound ranged from ∼2 to 10 psu. Although seasonal river discharge typically induces gradual salinity changes of less than 1 psu per month, four wind events caused sharp salinity increases of 1–2 psu within just a few days. We find that wind pumping, defined as the net salt transport due to temporal correlations between velocity and salinity associated with wind events, is the dominant mechanism contributing to these episodic increases in volume averaged salinity. In Albemarle Sound, wind pumping operates on timescales of several days, which is longer than the tidal timescale, and occurs intermittently throughout the year rather than following a regular repetitive pattern. Our analysis suggests that salt transport by wind pumping is typically an order of magnitude larger than by gravitational circulation and serves as the primary mechanism balancing salt loss from river flow. Isolating wind pumping requires averaging over variability of multiple days, longer than typical tidal averaging. Wind pumping likely also controls material exchange with coastal ocean, influencing biogeochemical processes in the estuary. This mechanism may be important in other systems with similar characteristics, particularly in coastal lagoons with multiple subembayments.

North Carolina↗

Northwest margin of California continental borderland: Marine geology and tectonic evolution

The northwest margin of the California continental borderland consists mainly of two northwest-trending pre-Neogene lithologic belts blanketed by Miocene and younger strata. These belts, which are lithologically and structurally correlated with the Franciscan Complex and Great Valley sequence of northern California, are interpreted to represent facies corresponding to the subduction complex and forearc-basin deposits of a late Mesozoic and Paleogene continental-margin arc-trench system. The outer belt, which forms the acoustic basement underlying the continental slope and Patton Ridge, is characterized by: (1) moderately high compressional velocities (5.1 to 6.2 km/sec), (2) discordant and discontinuous seismic reflectors, and (3) nonfossiliferous and diverse rock types t at range in metamorphic grade from zeolite-bearing arkosic sandstone to blueschist. Landward, the inner Great Valley sequence belt underlies Santa Rosa-Cortes Ridge and Santa Cruz and San Nicolas Basins; in contrast to the outer belt, this belt is characterized by: (1) intermediate compressional velocities (4.5 to 4.6 km/sec), (2) concordant and relatively continuous reflectors, and (3) a thick turbidite sequence of relatively undeformed and unmetamorphosed fossiliferous Cretaceous and Paleogene strata. The inner belt overlies a 6.6-km/sec layer that is probably oceanic crust, a relation consistent with the hypothesis that trapped old oceanic crust underlies the forearc basins along parts of some convergent margins. Well-developed wrench-fault structures in overlying Miocene strata record a transition from Paleogene subduction to Neogene transform faulting. Related events include widespread andesitic to dacitic volcanism and concurrent uplift and erosion of Miocene and older rocks. The proximity of these Miocene silicic volcanic rocks to the paleotrench (< 20 km) is best explained as resulting from passage of the southward-migrating Rivera ridge-fault-trench triple junction along the margin. On the basis of the age of the adjacent sea floor, passage of this triple junction occurred about 17 m.y. ago, a date that corresponds closely to the inception of volcanism and uplift in the northwest margin of the borderland. A widespread unconformity that separates highly deformed lower and lower middle iocene strata from relatively undeformed younger strata is assumed to mark the subsequent onset of wrench faulting. The timing of volcanism and uplift, and of the slightly younger wrenching event, closely matches the plate-tectonic model of Atwater and Molnar if the northwest margin of the borderland is restored to an earlier tectonic setting off Baja California, approximately 260 km southeast of its present position.

California↗

Monitoring storm tide and flooding from Hurricane Isaac along the Gulf Coast of the United States, August 2012

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) deployed a temporary monitoring network of water-level and barometric pressure sensors at 127 locations along the gulf coast from Alabama to Louisiana to record the timing, areal extent, and magnitude of hurricane storm tide and coastal flooding generated by Hurricane Isaac. This deployment was undertaken as part of a coordinated federal emergency response as outlined by the Stafford Act under a directed mission assignment by the Federal Emergency Management Agency. Storm tide, as defined by National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA; National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, 2008), is the water-level rise generated by a combination of storm surge and astronomical tide during a coastal storm. Hurricane Isaac initially made landfall on the coast of Louisiana in Plaquemines Parish on August 28, 2012, as a Category 1 hurricane on the Saffir–Simpson Hurricane Wind Scale (National Weather Service, 1974) and then stalled over southern Louisiana for several days, causing prolonged storm-tide impacts. A total of 188 water-level and wave-height sensors were deployed at 127 locations during August 27–28 prior to landfall. More than 90 percent of the sensors and all high-water marks (HWMs) were recovered and surveyed to North American Vertical Datum of 1988 (NAVD 88) within 7 days of the Isaac landfall. Only a handful of sensors in the Plaquemines Parish area of Louisiana could not be retrieved until weeks later due to prolonged flooding in the area. Data collected from this event can be used to evaluate the performance of storm-tide models for maximum and incremental water level and flood extent and the site-specific effects of storm tide on natural and anthropogenic features of the environment.

Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi↗

Assessment of saltwater intrusion in southern coastal Broward County, Florida

Of the counties in southeastern Florida, Broward County has experienced some of the most severe effects of saltwater intrusion into the surficial Biscayne aquifer because, before 1950, most public water-supply well fields in the county were constructed near the principal early population centers located less than 5 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. The construction of major regional drainage canals in the early 20th century caused a lowering of the water table and a gradual inland movement of the saltwater front toward the well fields. The U.S. Geological Survey began field investigations of saltwater intrusion in the Biscayne aquifer of southeastern Broward County in 1939. As part of the present study, the positions of the saltwater front in 1945, 1969, and 1993 were estimated using chloride concentrations of water samples collected between 1939 and 1994 from various monitoring and exploratory wells. The data indicate that, between 1945 and 1993, the saltwater front has moved as much as 0.5 mile inland in parts of the study area. The position and movement of the saltwater front were simulated numerically to help determine which of the various hydrologic factors and water-management features characterizing the coastal subsurface environment and its alteration by man are of significance in increasing or decreasing the degree of saltwater intrusion. Two representational methods were applied by the selection and use of appropriate model codes. The SHARP code simulates the position of the saltwater front as a sharp interface, which implies that no transition zone (a zone in which a gradational change between freshwater and saltwater occurs) separates freshwater and saltwater. The Subsurface Waste Injection Program (SWIP) code simulates a two-fluid, variable-density system using a convective-diffusion approach that includes a representation of the transition zone that occurs between the freshwater and saltwater bodies. The models were applied to: (1) approximately replicate predevelopment and current positions of the interface in the study area; and (2) study the relative importance of various factors affecting the interface position. The model analyses assumed a conceptual model of uniform easterly flow in the aquifer toward points of offshore discharge to tidewater. Measurements of water-table altitude and the depth to the interface in the study area exhibit an interrelation that differes substantially from the classical Ghyben-Herzberg relation. However, both model codes simulated water-table altitudes and interface positions that were generally consistent with the Ghyben-Herzberg relation but differed substantially from observed data. The simulate interface positions were inland of the known positions, and simulate water-table altitudes were higher than measured ones. The SHARP and SWIP simulations were in general agreement with each other when a low value of longitudinal dispersivity was specified in the SWIP simulation and also for higher values of longitudinal dispersivity when modified dispersion algorithms were used in SWIP that greatly reduced the simulated degree of vertical dispersion. Sensitivity analyses performed using the SHARP code indicated simulation results to be relatively insensitive to a substantial change in the specified slope of the base of the aquifer and moderately sensitive to a 150-percent change in net atmospheric recharge to the aquifer (rainfall minus evapotranspiration). Representing well-field pumping by the City of hallandale had only a minor, localized influence on the simulated regional interface position. Using various cross-sectional grid designs in applications of the SWIP code, near convergence of all lines of equal concentrations in the transition zone was achieved within a simulation time of 10 years. The simulated equilibrium interface location was sensitive to substantial spatial variations in the specified hydraulic conductivity values, but was relatively insensitive to seasonal varying

Florida↗

Hydrogen isotope systematics of phase separation in submarine hydrothermal systems: Experimental calibration and theoretical models

Hydrogen isotope fractionation factors were measured for coexisting brines and vapors formed by phase separation of NaCl/H2O fluids at temperatures ranging from 399-450??C and pressures from 277-397 bars. It was found that brines are depleted in D compared to coexisting vapors at all conditions studied. The magnitude of hydrogen isotope fractionation is dependent on the relative amounts of Cl in the two phases and can be empirically correlated to pressure using the following relationship: 1000 ln ??(vap-brine) = 2.54(??0.83) + 2.87(??0.69) x log (??P), where ??(vap-brine) is the fractionation factor and ??P is a pressure term representing distance from the critical curve in the NaCl/H2O system. The effect of phase separation on hydrogen isotope distribution in subseafloor hydrothermal systems depends on a number of factors, including whether phase separation is induced by heating at depth or by decompression of hydrothermal fluids ascending to the seafloor. Phase separation in most subseafloor systems appears to be a simple process driven by heating of seawater to conditions within the two-phase region, followed by segregation and entrainment of brine or vapor into a seawater dominated system. Resulting vent fluids exhibit large ranges in Cl concentration with no measurable effect on ??D. Possible exceptions to this include hydrothermal fluids venting at Axial and 9??N on the East Pacific Rise. High ??D values of low Cl fluids venting at Axial are consistent with phase separation taking place at relatively shallow levels in the oceanic crust while negative ??D values in some low Cl fluids venting at 9??N suggest involvement of a magmatic fluid component or phase separation of D-depleted brines derived during previous hydrothermal activity.

Geochimica et Cosmochimica Acta↗

Shear stress and bed roughness estimates for combined wave and current flows over a rippled bed

High‐quality bottom boundary layer measurements and bottom photographs were obtained over a sand substrate during a 10‐day deployment of the GEOPROBE tripod at an inner shelf (35‐m water depth) location off northern California. The seafloor surrounding the tripod was composed of well‐sorted medium‐grained (mean diameter, 0.25 mm) sand which was formed into symmetrical wave ripples with heights of 3–4 cm and wavelengths of 22–30 cm. Mean velocity profiles in the region from 23 cm to 102 cm above the rippled bed were highly logarithmic ( R > 0.95) approximately 30% of the time. Nineteen profiles exhibiting R > 0.997 were analyzed to obtain the shear velocity ( U * c ) and roughness length (Z 0 c ) for the mean current. The near‐bottom flow field was composed of quasi‐steady currents (up to 12 cm s −1 at z = 102 cm) and wave‐induced, oscillatory currents (up to 14 cm s −1 ). The data‐derived estimates of U * c and Z 0 c were 0.3–0.93 cm s −1 and 0.82–1.5 cm, respectively. The mean shear estimates are 50–100% larger than those predicted using a drag coefficient ( C D ) of 3 × 10 −3 that is typical for rough boundaries, and the roughness lengths are up to an order of magnitude larger than the maximum expected values based on the observed wave‐rippled bottom. These results indicate the importance of the combined flow turbulent interaction in producing a large apparent Z 0 c . However, comparison of the shear and roughness estimates derived from the velocity profile analysis to predictions made by the combined flow model of Grant and Madsen (1979) show that direct application of the wave‐ripple roughness equation of Grant and Madsen (1982) yields large overestimates of z 0 c and U * c . Selecting the physical roughness length k b (=30 z 0 ) that produced the best agreement with the data resulted in z 0 values ranging from 0.03 to 0.43 cm. Moreover, a direct correlation exists between these physical roughness estimates and the angle (θ cr ) formed by the mean current and the trend of the wave ripple crests. A simple linear relationship between k b and θ cr is suggested by our limited data set.

California↗

The typological approach to submarine groundwater discharge (SGD)

Coastal zone managers need to factor submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) in their integration. SGD provides a pathway for the transfer of freshwater, and its dissolved chemical burden, from the land to the coastal ocean. SGD reduces salinities and provides nutrients to specialized coastal habitats. It also can be a pollutant source, often undetected, causing eutrophication and triggering nuisance algal blooms. Despite its importance, SGD remains somewhat of a mystery in most places because it is usually unseen and difficult to measure. SGD has been directly measured at only about a hundred sites worldwide. A typology generated by the Land-Ocean Interaction in the Coastal Zone (LOICZ) Project is one of the few tools globally available to coastal resource managers for identifying areas in their jurisdiction where SGD may be a confounding process. (LOICZ is a core project of the International Geosphere/Biosphere Programme.) Of the hundreds of globally distributed parameters in the LOICZ typology, a SGD subset of potentially relevant parameters may be culled. A quantitative combination of the relevant hydrological parameters can serve as a proxy for the SGD conditions not directly measured. Web-LOICZ View, geospatial software then provides an automated approach to clustering these data into groups of locations that have similar characteristics. It permits selection of variables, of the number of clusters desired, and of the clustering criteria, and provides means of testing predictive results against independent variables. Information on the occurrence of a variety of SGD indicators can then be incorporated into regional clustering analysis. With such tools, coastal managers can focus attention on the most likely sites of SGD in their jurisdiction and design the necessary measurement and modeling programs needed for integrated management.

Biogeochemistry↗

Growth and equilibrium in sea otter populations

(1) Counts through time were compiled for five sea otter ( Enhydra lutris ) populations in the north-east Pacific Ocean that were below equilibrium density: Attu Island, south-east Alaska, British Columbia, Washington State, and central California. Similar data were obtained from the equilibrium density population at Amchitka Island in 1971 and 1986. (2) Shorelines of Attu and Amchitka islands each were divided into forty-five segments, within which lineal (length of shore at mean higher high water) and areal (mean higher high water to the 10-fathom (18.3-m) depth contour) measures were made of the amount of habitat. (3) Rate of increase for the four northern populations was 17-20% year-1. Density- or size-dependent changes in rate of increase could not be demonstrated for any of these populations. The California population, in contrast, has undergone three apparent growth phases: the early 1900s to the mid-1970s when it increased about 5% year-1; the mid-1970s to the mid-1980s when it declined about 5% year-1; and the mid-1980s to 1988 when it increased about 7% year-1. An exponential growth model accounted for 92-98% of the variation in counts through time in all cases. (4) Population increase at Attu Island was achieved largely by range expansion as opposed to increased density. Range expansion in lineal and areal habitat occurred at 11% and 13% year-1, respectively; neither rate was lower (P > 0.25) than the observed rate of increase in numbers of animals counted. (5) Despite similarities in island size and physical environment, the most conservative estimates of population density at Amchitka Island were > 3 X greater than maximum density estimates for Attu Island. (6) Surveys of Amchitka Island from the mid-1930s through the mid-1980s indicate that the population increased to a peak in the 1940s; declined abruptly thereafter; and subsequently increased to a new and higher equilibrium in the 1960s, where it has since remained. (7) These population data, together with information on sea otter foraging and benthic community structure at Attu and Amchitka islands, suggest that multiple population equilibria exist in this system, emanating from complex trophic interactions low in the food web. I hypothesize that the lower population equilibrium is achieved largely or exclusively on an invertebrate diet consisting principally of herbivorous sea urchins. When unregulated by sea otter predation, the rocky benthos is deforested by sea urchin grazing. As growing otter populations compete increasingly for food, grazing intensity declines and the system shifts to one dominated by kelp beds, in turn leading to increased production, a shift in habitat structure, and population increases of kelp bed fishes. Apparently this new food resource elevates the sea otter population to a higher and more stable equilibrium.

Journal of Animal Ecology↗

Simulated effects of alternative withdrawal strategies on groundwater flow in the unconfined Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system, the Rio Grande water-bearing zone, and the Atlantic City 800-foot sand in the Great Egg Harbor and Mullica River Basins, New Jersey

Groundwater is essential for water supply and plays a critical role in maintaining the environmental health of freshwater and estuarine ecosystems in the Atlantic Coastal basins of New Jersey. The unconfined Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system and the confined Atlantic City 800-foot sand are major sources of groundwater in the area, and each faces different water-supply concerns. The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), in cooperation with the New Jersey Department of Environmental Protection (NJDEP), conducted a study to simulate the effects of withdrawals in the Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system, the Atlantic City 800-foot sand, and the Rio Grande water-bearing zone and to evaluate potential scenarios. The study area encompasses Atlantic County and parts of Burlington, Camden, Gloucester, Ocean, Cape May, and Cumberland Counties. The major hydrogeologic units affecting water supply in the study area are the surficial Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system, a thick diatomaceous clay confining unit in the upper part of Kirkwood Formation; the Rio Grande water-bearing zone; and the Atlantic City 800-foot sand of the Kirkwood Formation. Hydrogeologic data from 18 aquifer tests and specific capacity data from 230 wells were analyzed to provide horizontal hydraulic conductivity of the aquifers. Groundwater withdrawals are greatest from the Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system, and 65 percent of the water is used for public supply. Groundwater withdrawals from the Atlantic City 800-foot sand are about half those from the Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system. Ninety-five percent of the withdrawals from the Atlantic City 800-foot sand is used for public supply. Data from six streamgaging stations and 51 low-flow partial record sites were used to estimate base flow in the area. Base flow ranges from 60 to 92 percent of streamflow. A groundwater flow model of the Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system, the Rio Grande water-bearing zone, and the Atlantic City 800-foot sand was developed and calibrated using water-level data from 148 wells and base-flow data from 22 gaging or low-flow partial record stations. The Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system within the Great Egg Harbor River and the Mullica River Basins was simulated on a monthly basis from 1998 through 2006. An existing regional model of the New Jersey Coastal Plain was revised to provide boundary conditions for the Great Egg Harbor and Mullica River Basin model (referred to as the Great Egg-Mullica model). In the Great Egg-Mullica model, monthly groundwater recharge rates used in the model ranged from 10-15 inches per year in 2001 to 20-25 inches per year in 2005. The mean-absolute error for 10 of the 14 long-term hydrographs used in model calibration was less than 5 ft. Groundwater flow budgets for the Great Egg-Mullica model calibration periods, May 2005 and September 2006, and for the entire model calibration period 1998 to 2006, showed that nearly 70 percent of the water entering the Atlantic City 800-foot sand came from the horizontal connection with the Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system in updip areas. The groundwater flow model was used to simulate scenarios under three possible conditions: average 1998 to 2006 withdrawals (Average scenario), full-allocation withdrawals (Full Allocation scenario), and projected 2050-demand withdrawals (2050 Demand scenario). Withdrawals in the Full Allocation scenario are nearly twice the withdrawals from the Average scenario, primarily because of the potential for large agricultural withdrawals if all allocations are used. Withdrawals for the 2050 Demand scenario are about 50 percent greater than those for the Average scenario, primarily due to expected increases in withdrawals for public supply. Monthly base-flow depletion criteria were determined using the Low-Flow Margin method, currently under consideration by NJDEP, to estimate available water on an annual basis at the Hydrologic Unit Code 11 (HUC11) level and to determine whether a water-supply deficit exists. Simulations of various groundwater-withdrawal scenarios were made using the calibrated model, and results were compared with baseline conditions (no withdrawals) to determine where and when base-flow deficits may be occurring and may be expected to occur in the future. Scenarios were simulated to assess base-flow depletion that could occur from different groundwater-withdrawal situations. In the Average scenario, deficits occurred in 7 of the 14 subbasins. In the Full Allocation scenario, deficits occurred in 11 of the subbasins. In the 2050 Demand scenario, deficits occurred in 9 of the 14 subbasins. The largest deficits occurred in the Absecon Creek subbasin because the base-flow depletion criteria for this subbasin is small due to the surface-water diversions that are already occurring there and because existing groundwater withdrawals in the subbasin have resulted in base-flow depletion under current (1998-2006) conditions. Three adjusted scenarios, variations of the Average, Full Allocation, and 2050 Demand scenarios, were simulated; for the adjusted scenarios, the withdrawals were modified in stages with the intent to successively eliminate or minimize the base-flow deficits. Modifications included shifting withdrawals to a deeper part of the Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system, implementing seasonal conjunctive use of shallow and deep aquifers, and specifying reductions in withdrawals within a HUC11 subbasin in deficit. The adjusted scenarios are intended to show the relative effectiveness of each of the three approaches in reducing the deficits. Most of the deficits under the Average, Full Allocation, and 2050 Demand scenarios were eliminated by reductions in withdrawals or allocations. Shifting withdrawals to a deeper part of the Kirkwood-Cohansey aquifer system or seasonal conjunctive use did not eliminate deficits for any subbasin. Reductions in withdrawals accounted for more than 95 percent of the total reduction of deficits in all but one subbasin.

New Jersey↗

Review of Oceanographic and Geochemical Data Collected in Massachusetts Bay during a Large Discharge of Total Suspended Solids from Boston's Sewage-Treatment System and Ocean Outfall in August 2002

During the period August 14-23, 2002, the discharge of total suspended solids (TSS) from the Massachusetts Water Resources Authority sewage-treatment plant ranged from 32 to 132 milligrams per liter, causing the monthly average discharge to exceed the limit specified in the National Pollution Discharge Elimination System permit. Time-series monitoring data collected by the U.S. Geological Survey in western Massachusetts Bay were examined to evaluate changes in environmental conditions during and after this exceedance event. The rate of sediment trapping and the concentrations of near-bottom suspended sediment measured near the outfall in western Massachusetts Bay increased during this period. Because similar increases in sediment-trapping rate were observed in the summers of 2003 and 2004, however, the increase in 2002 cannot be definitively attributed to the increased TSS discharge. Concentrations of copper and silver in trapped sediment collected 10 and 20 days following the 2002 TSS event were elevated compared to those in pre-event samples. Maximum concentrations were less than 50 percent of toxicity guidelines. Photographs of surficial bottom sediments obtained before and after the TSS event do not show sediment accumulation on the sea floor. Concentrations of silver, Clostridium perfringens, and clay in surficial bottom sediments sampled 10 weeks after the discharge event at a depositional site 3 kilometers west of the outfall were unchanged from those in samples obtained before the event. Simulation of the TSS event by using a coupled hydrodynamic-wave-sediment-transport model could enhance understanding of these observations and of the effects of the exceedance on the local marine environment.

Open-File Report↗

Hydrothermal alteration in oceanic ridge volcanics: A detailed study at the Galapagos Fossil Hydrothermal Field

The Galapagos Fossil Hydrothermal Field is composed of altered oceanic crust and extinct hydrothermal vents within the eastern Galapagos Rift between 85°49′W and 85°55′W. The discharge zone of the hydrothermal system is revealed along scarps, thus providing an opportunity to examine the uppermost mineralized, and highly altered interior parts of the crust. Altered rocks collected in situ by the submersible ALVIN show complex concentric alteration zones. Microsamples of individual zones have been analysed for major/minor, trace elements, and strontium isotopes in order to describe the complex compositional details of the hydrothermal alteration. Interlayered chlorite-smectite and chlorite with disequilibrium compositions dominate the secondary mineralogy as replacement phases of primary glass and acicular pyroxene. Phenocrysts and matrix grains of plagioclase are unaffected during alteration. Using a modification of the Gresens' equation we demonstrate that the trivalent rare earth elements (REEs) are relatively immobile, and calculate degrees of enrichment and depletion in other elements. Strontium isotopic ratios increase as Sr concentrations decrease from least-altered cores to most-altered rims and cross-cutting veins in individual samples, and can be modeled by open system behaviour under low fluid-rock ratio (< 10) conditions following a period of lower-temperature weathering of volcanics within the rift zone. The complex patterns of element enrichment and depletion and strontium isotope variations indicate mixing between pristine seawater and ascending hot fluids to produce a compositional spectrum of fluids. The precipitation of base-metal sulfides beneath the seafloor is probably a result of fluid mixing and cooling. If, as suggested here, the discharge zone alteration occurred under relatively low fluid-rock ratios, then this shallow region must play an important role in determining the exit composition of vent fluids in marine hydrothermal systems.

Geochimica et Cosmochimica Acta↗

Probabilistic tsunami hazard assessment at Seaside, Oregon, for near-and far-field seismic sources

The first probabilistic tsunami flooding maps have been developed. The methodology, called probabilistic tsunami hazard assessment (PTHA), integrates tsunami inundation modeling with methods of probabilistic seismic hazard assessment (PSHA). Application of the methodology to Seaside, Oregon, has yielded estimates of the spatial distribution of 100- and 500-year maximum tsunami amplitudes, i.e., amplitudes with 1% and 0.2% annual probability of exceedance. The 100-year tsunami is generated most frequently by far-field sources in the Alaska-Aleutian Subduction Zone and is characterized by maximum amplitudes that do not exceed 4 m, with an inland extent of less than 500 m. In contrast, the 500-year tsunami is dominated by local sources in the Cascadia Subduction Zone and is characterized by maximum amplitudes in excess of 10 m and an inland extent of more than 1 km. The primary sources of uncertainty in these results include those associated with interevent time estimates, modeling of background sea level, and accounting for temporal changes in bathymetry and topography. Nonetheless, PTHA represents an important contribution to tsunami hazard assessment techniques; viewed in the broader context of risk analysis, PTHA provides a method for quantifying estimates of the likelihood and severity of the tsunami hazard, which can then be combined with vulnerability and exposure to yield estimates of tsunami risk. Copyright 2009 by the American Geophysical Union.

Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans↗

Effect of wave-enhanced bottom friction on storm-driven circulation in Massachusetts Bay

Massachusetts Bay is a shallow (35 m average depth) semienclosed embayment, roughly 100 ?? 50 km, which opens into the Gulf of Maine at its eastern boundary. Surface waves associated with winter storm winds from the northeast cause large sediment resuspension events, and wave and circulation fields during these events have a quasi-steady response to the wind stress. Coupled wave, circulation, and boundary layer models indicate that wave-enhanced bottom friction has a significant damping effect on storm-driven circulation in Massachusetts Bay. The simulated response exhibits significant three-dimensional structure, but still can be fundamentally understood using idealized models. The depth-integrated momentum balance is dominated by along-bay stress, pressure gradient, and bottom stress. The effective bottom drag coefficient during typical storm conditions is increased by a factor of 2-5 when wave effects are included, but the mean bottom stress is relatively unaffected by wave effects due to a reduction in bottom currents by 30-50%. The vertical mixing is also relatively unaffected by the waves, and the result is that the increased drag causes a nearly depth-independent offset of the vertical current profiles. The alongshore transport in the bay is reduced 10-50%, depending on wind direction.

Cape Cod Bay, Massachussetts Bay↗

Numerical simulation of the boundary layer flow generated in Monterey Bay, California by the 2010 Chilean tsunami: Case study

This work presents a case study involving the numerical simulation of the unsteady boundary layer generated by the 2010 Chilean tsunami, as measured by field equipment in Monterey Bay, California, USA. A one-dimensional vertical (1DV) boundary layer model is utilized, solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations, coupled with two-equation k – ω turbulence closure. Local effects of convective acceleration (converging–diverging effects) on the boundary layer due to the sloping bed are likewise approximated. Four cases are considered involving simulation of: (1) the long tsunami-induced boundary layer flow in isolation, in combination with either (2) convective acceleration effects or (3) energetic short wind waves, and, finally, (4) all effects combined. Reasonable agreement with field measurements is achieved, with model results similarly showing that the tsunami-induced boundary layer in this case only spans a fraction of the local water depth. Systematic comparison of the various cases likewise elucidates the likely significance of both local converging–diverging effects, as well as interaction with the much shorter period wind waves, on the tsunami-generated boundary layer. In the latter case, analogy is drawn to well-known wave–current boundary layer interaction, with the boundary layer turbulence associated with the short wind waves inducing an effective wave roughness felt by the tsunami-induced flow, which effectively plays the role of the current.

California↗

Ephemerality of discrete methane vents in lake sediments

Methane is a potent greenhouse gas whose emission from sediments in inland waters and shallow oceans may both contribute to global warming and be exacerbated by it. The fraction of methane emitted by sediments that bypasses dissolution in the water column and reaches the atmosphere as bubbles depends on the mode and spatiotemporal characteristics of venting from the sediments. Earlier studies have concluded that hot spots&mdash;persistent, high-flux vents&mdash;dominate the regional ebullitive flux from submerged sediments. Here the spatial structure, persistence, and variability in the intensity of methane venting are analyzed using a high-resolution multibeam sonar record acquired at the bottom of a lake during multiple deployments over a 9 month period. We confirm that ebullition is strongly episodic, with distinct regimes of high flux and low flux largely controlled by changes in hydrostatic pressure. Our analysis shows that the spatial pattern of ebullition becomes homogeneous at the sonar's resolution over time scales of hours (for high-flux periods) or days (for low-flux periods), demonstrating that vents are ephemeral rather than persistent, and suggesting that long-term, lake-wide ebullition dynamics may be modeled without resolving the fine-scale spatial structure of venting.

Geophysical Research Letters↗

A model for the generation of two-dimensional surf beat

A finite difference model predicting group-forced long waves in the nearshore is constructed with two interacting parts: an incident wave model providing time-varying radiation stress gradients across the nearshore, and a long-wave model which solves the equations of motion for the forcing imposed by the incident waves. Both shallow water group-bound long waves and long waves generated by a time-varying breakpoint are simulated. Model-generated time series are used to calculate the cross correlation between wave groups and long waves through the surf zone. The cross-correlation signal first observed by Tucker (1950) is well predicted. For the first time, this signal is decomposed into the contributions from the two mechanisms of leaky mode forcing. Results show that the cross-correlation signal can be explained by bound long waves which are amplified, though strongly modified, through the surf zone before reflection from the shoreline. The breakpoint-forced long waves are added to the bound long waves at a phase of pi/2 and are a secondary contribution owing to their relatively small size.

Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans↗

Compositional variations of young basalts in the Mid-Atlantic Ridge rift valley near lat 36°49′N

Fifty acoustically positioned samples of fresh basalt were collected by the submersible Alvin from the median valley of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge during the French American Mid-Ocean Undersea Study (FAMOUS) in the summer of 1974. The samples show regular compositional variations from the center of the rift valley (central lava flows) out to the rift valley walls (flank lava flows). The central lava samples show higher ratios of olivine relative to clinopyroxene and plagioclase phenocrysts and contain chrome spinel. Glasses of the flank lava samples are enriched in SiO 2 , TiO 2 , K 2 O, H 2 O, and FeO/MgO relative to central lava samples. Studies of the thickness of palagonite and manganese crusts indicate that the flank lava flows are considerably younger than the inferred spreading age of the crust on which they occur. Flank lavas are generally older than central lavas, but notable exceptions occur. The composition of the flank lava glass can be derived by the removal of approximately 29 wt percent of analyzed phenocrysts (in the ratio 5.7 plagioclase, 2.5 olivine, 1.8 clinopyroxene) from the central lava glass. In addition, other processes (possibly involving volatile transfer) must enrich the flank lavas in K 2 O, TiO 2 , and H 2 O. A model is proposed whereby this crystal fractionation occurs in a shallow, narrow (6-km-wide) magma chamber underlying the median valley. The chamber is compositionally zoned, and central lavas are fed from dikes tapping its hotter axial zone, whereas flank lavas are fed from the cooler, differentiated melt on the margins. The nature of the chemical variations in the lavas permits an estimate of the composition and thickness of the cumulates forming at the base of the chamber.

GSA Bulletin↗

The distribution of seabirds and pinnipeds in Marguerite Bay and their relationship to physical features during austral winter 2001

The distribution of seabirds and pinnipeds and their relationship to physical oceanographic variables were investigated as part of the US Southern Ocean Global Ocean Ecosystem Dynamics field program along a study grid centered around Marguerite Bay on the west Antarctic Peninsula during late fall (April-May) and winter (July-August), 2001. Sea-ice conditions during the cruises provided an opportunity to compare the relationship among physical oceanographic variables and species distributions before and after the development of pack ice. During the fall cruise before pack ice development, both sea-ice-affiliated species and open-water-affiliated were observed in the area. The most common ice-affiliated species observed at this time were snow petrel (Pagodroma nivea, 0.7 individuals km-2) and Antarctic petrel (Thalassoica antarctica, 0.2 individuals km-2) and the most common open-water-affiliated species were blue petrel (Halobaena caerulea, 0.4 individuals km-2), cape petrel (Daption capense, 0.2 individuals km-2), and southern fulmar (Fulmarus glacialoides, 0.1 individuals km-2). In addition, Antarctic fur seals (Arctocephalus gazella, 0.1 individuals km-2) and crabeater seals (Lobodon carcinophagus, 0.4 individuals km-2) were observed in low numbers. Akaike's information criterion was used to assess competing models that predicted predator distributions based on physical oceanographic variables proposed to structure predator distribution in previous research. These analyses indicated that predator distributions were primarily associated with water-mass structure and variability in bottom depth during the fall cruise. Crabeater seal, snow petrel, Antarctic petrel, and southern fulmar had higher densities in Inner Shelf Water, particularly near Alexander Island where a coastal current was present. Blue petrel, kelp gull (Larus dominicanus), and southern giant petrel (Macronectes giganteus) were positively associated with variability in bottom depth in April-May, suggesting that hydrographic processes influenced by bathymetry may have been important in structuring bird distributions. After the development of pack ice, during July and August, only sea-ice-affiliated species, including snow petrel (1.0 individuals km-2), Antarctic petrel (0.1 individuals km-2), Ade??lie penguin (Pygoscelis adeliae, 0.4 individuals km-2), and crabeater seal (0.3 individuals km-2), were observed. Seabirds were primarily associated with sea-ice characteristics (e.g. sea-ice concentration, sea-ice type) rather than the water-column environment later in the winter. Results from this study suggest that the timing and extent of sea-ice development in the fall may influence over-winter predation by seabirds and pinnipeds on zooplankton and fish on the western Antarctic Peninsula. Delays in sea-ice development may allow seabirds and pinnipeds access to biologically important areas such as the Inner Shelf Water for a longer period of time thereby increasing predation on zooplankton and fish. ?? 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Deep-Sea Research Part II: Topical Studies in Ocea↗