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At least 127 records · Page 7Linked to original sources
USGS2012

Archive of side scan sonar and swath bathymetry data collected during USGS cruise 10CCT03 offshore of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, Mississippi, from East Ship Island, Mississippi, to Dauphin Island, Alabama, April 2010

In April of 2010, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) conducted a geophysical survey from the east end of East Ship Island, Miss., extending to the middle of Dauphin Island, Ala. (fig. 1). This survey had a dual purpose: (1) to interlink previously conducted nearshore geophysical surveys (shoreline to ~2 km) with those of offshore surveys (~2 to ~9 km) in the area, and (2) to extend the geophysical survey to include a portion of the Dauphin Island nearshore zone. The efforts were part of the USGS Gulf of Mexico Science Coordination partnership with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) to assist the Mississippi Coastal Improvements Program (MsCIP) and the Northern Gulf of Mexico (NGOM) Ecosystem Change and Hazards Susceptibility Project by mapping the shallow geological stratigraphic framework of the Mississippi Barrier Island Complex. These geophysical surveys will provide the data necessary for scientists to define, interpret, and provide baseline bathymetry and seafloor habitat for this area and to aid scientists in predicting future geomorpholocial changes of the islands with respect to climate change, storm impact, and sea-level rise. Furthermore, these data will provide information for barrier island restoration feasibility, particularly in Camille Cut, and efforts for the preservation of historical Fort Massachusetts. For more information refer to http://ngom.usgs.gov/gomsc/mscip/. This report serves as an archive of the processed multibeam bathymetry and side scan sonar (SSS) data. Data products herein include gridded and interpolated digital depth surfaces, seabed surface backscatter imagery, and x,y,z data products for both multibeam bathymetry and side scan sonar imagery. Additional files include trackline maps, navigation files, geograpahic information system (GIS) files, Field Activity Collection System (FACS) logs, and formal Federal Geographic Data Committee (FGDC) metadata. Scanned images of the handwritten FACS logs and digital FACS logs are also provided as PDF files. Refer to the Acronyms page for description of acronyms and abbreviations used in this report or hold the cursor over an acronym for a pop-up explanation. The USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center assigns a unique identifier to each cruise or field activity. For example, 10CCT03 tells us the data were collected in 2010 for the Coastal Change and Transport (CCT) study and the data were collected during the third (03) field activity for that project in that calendar year. Refer to http://walrus.wr.usgs.gov/infobank/programs/html/definition/activity.html for a detailed description of the method used to assign the field activity ID. Data were collected aboard the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) SV Irvington , a 56-foot (ft) Kvichak Marine Industries, Inc., catamaran (fig. 2). Side scan sonar and multibeam bathymetry data were collected simultaneously along the tracklines. The side scan sonar towfish was towed off the starboard side just slightly behind the vessel, close to the seafloor. The multibeam transducer was attached to a retractable strut-arm lowered between the catamaran hulls. Navigation was acquired with an Applanix POS MV and differentially corrected using the broadcast signal from a local National Geodetic Survey (NGS) Continuously Operating Reference Station (CORS) beacon. See the digital FACS equipment log for details about the acquisition equipment used. Raw datasets were stored digitally and processed using HYPACK Inc., HYSWEEP software at the USACE Mobile, Ala., District office. For more information on processing refer to the Equipment and Processing page. Chirp seismic data were also collected during this survey and are archived separately.

Gulf Islands National Seashore↗
USGS2018

Unmanned aerial systems capabilities of the U.S. Geological Survey Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center

Unmanned aerial system (UAS) technology provides a rapid and low-cost solution for mapping coastal environments and assessing short- and long-term changes. The interdisciplinary nature of the data collected and the breadth of applications make UAS technology applicable to multiple scientific investigations. The Aerial Imaging and Mapping (AIM) group at the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center provides UAS services to scientists to advance the science mission of the Coastal-Marine Hazards and Resources Program. Scientists at the Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center use UASs to acquire imagery of coastal and wetland environments, which is then used to produce detailed topographic and visual reflectance datasets. UAS technology supports the work of geologists, engineers, physical scientists, geographers, and geochemists who study coastal erosion, sediment transport, storm impacts, habitats, biomass, and marsh stability.

Fact Sheet↗
USGS2025

Multiple dimensions define thresholds for population resilience of the eastern oyster, Crassostrea virginica

A species' distribution depends on its tolerance to environmental conditions. These conditions are defined by a minimum, maximum, and optimal ranges of single and combined factors. Forays into environmental conditions outside the minimum or maximum tolerance of a species (i.e., thresholds) are predicted to have large effects on a species' population and may help predict population resilience in the face of changing conditions. Here, we explore ecological thresholds for an important fisheries species and ecosystem engineer, Crassostrea virginica (eastern oyster). In coastal Louisiana, extreme freshwater inputs from rivers and precipitation events impact estuarine salinity, which is a key driver of oyster population dynamics. Using daily salinity and monthly oyster abundance monitoring data across Louisiana estuaries, we explore low salinity exposure threshold levels for oysters. Two statistical approaches were applied, with each model highlighting a different operational definition of a threshold: random forest models identified a threshold as an abrupt change in the oyster abundance- salinity relationship, while Bayesian models identified an increased probability of oyster abundance dropping below a critical threshold, defined here as less than 50% of the 5-year mean. All model results indicate oysters in coastal Louisiana experience low salinity exposure thresholds, defined as the number of consecutive summer days of salinity levels less than 5. However, actual number of days and salinity threshold differed by statistical approach, oyster life stage, and estuary highlighting the multiple dimensions defining ecological thresholds. While thresholds are considered important benchmarks to inform management and assess population or ecosystem vulnerability, our results reveal the need to carefully relate threshold definition to management goals and to acknowledge that thresholds may be highly context dependent.

Louisiana↗
USGS2006

Nearshore shore-oblique bars, gravel outcrops, and their correlation to shoreline change

This study demonstrates the physical concurrence of shore-oblique bars and gravel outcrops in the surf zone along the northern Outer Banks of North Carolina. These subaqueous features are spatially correlated with shoreline change at a range of temporal and spatial scales. Previous studies have noted the existence of beach-surf zone interactions, but in general, relationships between nearshore geological features and coastal change are poorly understood. These new findings should be considered when exploring coastal zone dynamics and developing predictive engineering models. The surf zone and nearshore region of the Outer Banks is predominantly planar and sandy, but there are several discrete regions with shore-oblique bars and interspersed gravel outcrops. These bar fields have relief up to 3 m, are several kilometers wide, and were relatively stationary over a 1.5 year survey period; however, the shoreward component of the bar field does exhibit change during this time frame. All gravel outcrops observed in the study region, a 40 km longshore length, were located adjacent to a shore-oblique bar, in a trough that had width and length similar to that of the associated bar. Seismic surveys show that the outcrops are part of a gravel stratum underlying the active surface sand layer. Cross-correlation analyses demonstrate high correlation of monthly and multi-decadal shoreline change rates with the adjacent surf-zone bathymetry and sediment distribution. Regionally, areas with shore-oblique bars and gravel outcrops are correlated with on-shore areas of high short-term shoreline variability and high long-term shoreline change rates. The major peaks in long-term shoreline erosion are onshore of shore-oblique bars, but not all areas with high rates of long-term shoreline change are associated with shore-oblique bars and troughs.

North Carolina↗
USGS2018

Seagrass impact on sediment exchange between tidal flats and salt Marsh, and the sediment budget of shallow bays

Seagrasses are marine flowering plants that strongly impact their physical and biological surroundings and are therefore frequently referred to as ecological engineers. The effect of seagrasses on coastal bay resilience and sediment transport dynamics is understudied. Here we use six historical maps of seagrass distribution in Barnegat Bay, USA, to investigate the role of these vegetated surfaces on the sediment storage capacity of shallow bays. Analyses are carried out by means of the Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) numerical modeling framework. Results show that a decline in the extent of seagrass meadows reduces the sediment mass potentially stored within bay systems. The presence of seagrass reduces shear stress values across the entire bay, including unvegetated areas, and promotes sediment deposition on tidal flats. On the other hand, the presence of seagrasses decreases suspended sediment concentrations, which in turn reduces the delivery of sediment to marsh platforms. Results highlight the relevance of seagrasses for the long-term survival of coastal ecosystems, and the complex dynamics regulating the interaction between subtidal and intertidal landscapes.

New Jersey↗
USGS1994

Simulating effects of highway embankments on estuarine circulation

A two‐dimensional, depth‐averaged, finite‐difference, numerical model was used to simulate tidal circulation and mass transport in the Port Royal Sound, South Carolina, estuarine system. The purpose of the study was to demonstrate the utility of the Surface‐Water, Integrated, Flow and Transport model (SWIFT2D) for evaluating changes in circulation patterns and mass transport caused by highway‐crossing embankments. A model of a subregion of Port Royal Sound including the highway crossings and having a grid size of 61 m (200 ft) was derived from a 183‐m (600‐ft) model of the entire Port Royal Sound estuarine system. The 183‐m model was used to compute boundary‐value data for the 61‐m submodel, which was then used to simulate flow conditions with and without the highway embankments in place. The numerical simulations show that, with the highway embankments in place, mass transport between the Broad River and Battery Creek is reduced and mass transport between the Beaufort River and Battery Creek is increased. The net result is that mass transport into and out of upper Battery Creek is reduced. The presence of the embankments also alters circulation patterns within Battery Creek.

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engin↗
USGS1997

Effect of wave-enhanced bottom friction on storm-driven circulation in Massachusetts Bay

Massachusetts Bay is a shallow (35 m average depth) semienclosed embayment, roughly 100 ?? 50 km, which opens into the Gulf of Maine at its eastern boundary. Surface waves associated with winter storm winds from the northeast cause large sediment resuspension events, and wave and circulation fields during these events have a quasi-steady response to the wind stress. Coupled wave, circulation, and boundary layer models indicate that wave-enhanced bottom friction has a significant damping effect on storm-driven circulation in Massachusetts Bay. The simulated response exhibits significant three-dimensional structure, but still can be fundamentally understood using idealized models. The depth-integrated momentum balance is dominated by along-bay stress, pressure gradient, and bottom stress. The effective bottom drag coefficient during typical storm conditions is increased by a factor of 2-5 when wave effects are included, but the mean bottom stress is relatively unaffected by wave effects due to a reduction in bottom currents by 30-50%. The vertical mixing is also relatively unaffected by the waves, and the result is that the increased drag causes a nearly depth-independent offset of the vertical current profiles. The alongshore transport in the bay is reduced 10-50%, depending on wind direction.

Cape Cod Bay, Massachussetts Bay↗
USGS1998

Hydrodynamic forcing and sediment character in Boston Harbor

Calculated annual excess skin friction stress at various locations in Quincy Bay (outer Boston Harbor) was found to be correlated positively with sediment sand content. The correlation was optimized when a critical shear stress (??c) of 0.085 Pa was assumed for the bay. The excess shear stress was correlated negatively with sediment lead (Pb) and polychlorinated biphenyl (PCB) concentrations. These correlations suggest that area surveys of properties like sand content may be sufficient to estimate ??C.

Massachussetts↗
USGS2001

Factors controlling navigation-channel Shoaling in Laguna Madre, Texas

Shoaling in the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway of Laguna Madre, Tex., is caused primarily by recycling of dredged sediments. Sediment recycling, which is controlled by water depth and location with respect to the predominant wind-driven currents, is minimal where dredged material is placed on tidal flats that are either flooded infrequently or where the water is extremely shallow. In contrast, nearly all of the dredged material placed in open water >1.5 m deep is reworked and either transported back into the channel or dispersed into the surrounding lagoon. A sediment flux analysis incorporating geotechnical properties demonstrated that erosion and not postemplacement compaction caused most sediment losses from the placement areas. Comparing sediment properties in the placement areas and natural lagoon indicated that the remaining dredged material is mostly a residual of initial channel construction. Experimental containment designs (shallow subaqueous mound, submerged levee, and emergent levee) constructed in high-maintenance areas to reduce reworking did not retain large volumes of dredged material. The emergent levee provided the greatest retention potential approximately 2 years after construction.

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engin↗
USGS2003

Longshore sediment transport rates on a microtidal estuarine beach

Longshore sediment transport rates were estimated on a microtidal estuarine beach in Great South Bay, N.Y., during two dyed sand tracer experiments using a temporal sampling method. Mean onshore wind speeds of 5.8 and 9.9 m/s resulted in root-mean-square wave heights of 0.07 and 0.08 m and wave angles of 3.0 and 10.1, causing transport rates of 0.468 and 0.972 m3/h. Rates were 3.1 to 6.5 times greater than predicted by existing equations using standard coefficients. Greater rates are attributed to the concentration of sediment transport in the energetic swash zone under plunging breakers.

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engin↗
USGS2004

Estimation of contraction scour in riverbed using SERF

Contraction scour in a firm-clay estuarine riverbed is estimated at an oil-unloading terminal at the Port of Haldia in India, where a scour hole attained a maximum depth greater than 5 m relative to the original bottom. A linear equation for the erosion flux as a function of the excess bed shear stress was semicalibrated in a rotating-cylinder device called SERF (Simulator of Erosion Rate Function) and coupled to a hydrodynamic code to simulate the hole as a clear-water scour process. SERF, whose essential design is based on previous such devices, additionally included a load cell for in situ and rapid measurement of the eroded sediment mass. Based on SERF's performance and the degree of comparison between measured and simulated hole geometry, it appears that this device holds promise as a simple tool for prediction of scour in firm-clay beds. ?? ASCE.

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engin↗
USGS2004

One-dimensional wave bottom boundary layer model comparison: Specific eddy viscosity and turbulence closure models

Six one-dimensional-vertical wave bottom boundary layer models are analyzed based on different methods for estimating the turbulent eddy viscosity: Laminar, linear, parabolic, k —one equation turbulence closure, k−ε —two equation turbulence closure, and k−ω —two equation turbulence closure. Resultant velocity profiles, bed shear stresses, and turbulent kinetic energy are compared to laboratory data of oscillatory flow over smooth and rough beds. Bed shear stress estimates for the smooth bed case were most closely predicted by the k−ω model. Normalized errors between model predictions and measurements of velocity profiles over the entire computational domain collected at 15° intervals for one-half a wave cycle show that overall the linear model was most accurate. The least accurate were the laminar and k−ε models. Normalized errors between model predictions and turbulence kinetic energy profiles showed that the k−ω model was most accurate. Based on these findings, when the smallest overall velocity profile prediction error is required, the processing requirements and error analysis suggest that the linear eddy viscosity model is adequate. However, if accurate estimates of bed shear stress and TKE are required then, of the models tested, the k−ω model should be used.

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engin↗
USGS2012

Process-based coastal erosion modeling for Drew Point (North Slope, Alaska)

A predictive, coastal erosion/shoreline change model has been developed for a small coastal segment near Drew Point, Beaufort Sea, Alaska. This coastal setting has experienced a dramatic increase in erosion since the early 2000’s. The bluffs at this site are 3-4 m tall and consist of ice-wedge bounded blocks of fine-grained sediments cemented by ice-rich permafrost and capped with a thin organic layer. The bluffs are typically fronted by a narrow ( ∼ 5 m wide) beach or none at all. During a storm surge, the sea contacts the base of the bluff and a niche is formed through thermal and mechanical erosion. The niche grows both vertically and laterally and eventually undermines the bluff, leading to block failure or collapse. The fallen block is then eroded both thermally and mechanically by waves and currents, which must occur before a new niche forming episode may begin. The erosion model explicitly accounts for and integrates a number of these processes including: (1) storm surge generation resulting from wind and atmospheric forcing, (2) erosional niche growth resulting from wave-induced turbulent heat transfer and sediment transport (using the Kobayashi niche erosion model), and (3) thermal and mechanical erosion of the fallen block. The model was calibrated with historic shoreline change data for one time period (1979-2002), and validated with a later time period (2002-2007).

Alaska↗
USGS2021

Incorporating water quality analysis into navigation assessments as demonstrated in the Mississippi River Basin

A description of historical and ambient water quality conditions is often required as part of navigational studies. This paper describes a series of tools developed by the USGS that can aid navigation managers in developing water quality assessments. The tools use R, a statistical software program, and provide methods to retrieve historical streamflow and water quality data, summarize observations, model concentrations and fluxes, and estimate seasonal, annual, and decadal trends. The utility of these tools is demonstrated by providing an analysis of the seasonal variability and long-term trends of nitrate plus nitrite, orthophosphate, and suspended sediment concentrations and fluxes at nine sites in the Mississippi River Basin. Trends in annual mean concentration and flux showed fairly stable nitrate plus nitrite at most of the nine sites, with increases in the Upper Mississippi and Missouri Rivers and decreases on the Illinois River over a 40-year period beginning in 1980. Orthophosphate concentration or flux increased at almost all sites over a similar time period. Conversely, a concurrent steady decline in suspended sediment concentrations and fluxes was noted at sites throughout the basin.

Mississippi River Basin↗
USGS2021

Numerical simulation of the boundary layer flow generated in Monterey Bay, California by the 2010 Chilean tsunami: Case study

This work presents a case study involving the numerical simulation of the unsteady boundary layer generated by the 2010 Chilean tsunami, as measured by field equipment in Monterey Bay, California, USA. A one-dimensional vertical (1DV) boundary layer model is utilized, solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations, coupled with two-equation k – ω turbulence closure. Local effects of convective acceleration (converging–diverging effects) on the boundary layer due to the sloping bed are likewise approximated. Four cases are considered involving simulation of: (1) the long tsunami-induced boundary layer flow in isolation, in combination with either (2) convective acceleration effects or (3) energetic short wind waves, and, finally, (4) all effects combined. Reasonable agreement with field measurements is achieved, with model results similarly showing that the tsunami-induced boundary layer in this case only spans a fraction of the local water depth. Systematic comparison of the various cases likewise elucidates the likely significance of both local converging–diverging effects, as well as interaction with the much shorter period wind waves, on the tsunami-generated boundary layer. In the latter case, analogy is drawn to well-known wave–current boundary layer interaction, with the boundary layer turbulence associated with the short wind waves inducing an effective wave roughness felt by the tsunami-induced flow, which effectively plays the role of the current.

California↗
USGS2023

Advances in morphodynamic modeling of coastal barriers: A review

As scientific understanding of barrier morphodynamics has improved, so has the ability to reproduce observed phenomena and predict future barrier states using mathematical models. To use existing models effectively and improve them, it is important to understand the current state of morphodynamic modeling and the progress that has been made in the field. This manuscript offers a review of the literature regarding advancements in morphodynamic modeling of coastal barrier systems and summarizes current modeling abilities and limitations. Broadly, this review covers both event-scale and long-term morphodynamics. Each of these sections begins with an overview of commonly modeled phenomena and processes, followed by a review of modeling developments. After summarizing the advancements toward the stated modeling goals, we identify research gaps and suggestions for future research under the broad categories of improving our abilities to acquire and access data, furthering our scientific understanding of relevant processes, and advancing our modeling frameworks and approaches.

Virginia↗
USGS2025

Mitigating flood risks in urban estuaries: Tidal dynamics, shoreline hardening, nature-based solutions, and floodgates in San Francisco Bay

Hydrodynamic models are valuable tools for understanding the primary factors influencing daily and peak water levels and for guiding discussions on potential adaptation strategies for managing flood risk in coastal areas. This analysis uses the Delft3D San Francisco Bay-Delta Community Model to simulate water levels and incorporates the effects of a number of adaptation measures in the urban San Francisco Bay estuary, California. In particular, we examine the influence of shoreline hardening, nature-based solutions, and subregional floodgates on regional water levels. The result shows that under present conditions, tidal amplification is responsible for generating a wide distribution of extreme water levels across San Francisco Bay. Tidal amplification is found to decrease under sea level rise, thereby producing a relative damping effect on extremes. A comparison of different shoreline scenarios demonstrates that hard frontal shorelines result in higher tidal amplification, whereas restored (soft) shorelines lower amplification. The current shoreline configuration has both hard and soft characteristics and results in an intermediate tidal response. In some areas, wetland restoration reduces extreme water levels by as much as 20 cm, whereas hard-shoreline addition elevates them by as much as 10 cm for 1.5 m of sea level rise. Furthermore, local floodgates can significantly reduce high water levels without major adverse effects elsewhere in San Francisco Bay. These findings point toward the justification for a range of adaptive measures across political boundaries, weighing hard and soft options in addressing the mounting danger of sea level rise.

California↗
USGS2026

A process-based model for forecasting wave runup along the coast of Georgia

Wave runup is an important nearshore process that impacts total water level, sediment transport, and coastal design. Current methods for forecasting wave runup implement an empirical model that considers offshore wave height, wave period, and generalized beach slope. In this study, the authors generated wave runup forecasts from offshore wave conditions and a system of polynomial equations derived from numerical simulations at three different still water datums for each beach profile. They developed a process-based methodology that incorporated site-specific cross-shore topobathy into the phase-resolving numerical model. A comparison between the system of equations, deterministic hydrodynamic simulations, and observed high-water marks was made using Hurricanes Matthew (2016) and Irma (2017) for 12 cases, and it showed that the polynomials were capable of being consistent with the results from full simulation runs, while not requiring hours of runtime when a forecast was needed—the differences between the polynomial and the observed high water marks ranged from 3 to 32 cm for the Irma hindcast and 9–70 cm for Matthew. Then, using forcings from Hurricanes Ian and Nicole (2022), the model predicted the occurrence of dune collision, overwash, and inundation for the coast of Georgia and suggested that wave runup was impacted by the still water level and local topobathy.

Georgia↗