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66 records · Page 4Linked to original sources
USGS2018

Sediment transport model including short-lived radioisotopes: Model description and idealized test cases

Geochronologies derived from sediment cores in coastal locations are often used to infer event bed characteristics such as deposit thicknesses and accumulation rates. Such studies commonly use naturally occurring, short-lived radioisotopes, such as Beryllium-7 ( 7 Be) and Thorium-234 ( 234 Th), to study depositional and post-depositional processes. These radioisotope activities, however, are not generally represented in sediment transport models that characterize coastal flood and storm deposition with grain size patterns and deposit thicknesses. We modified the Community Sediment Transport Modeling System (CSTMS) to account for reactive tracers and used this capability to represent the behavior of these short-lived radioisotopes on the sediment bed. This paper describes the model and presents results from a set of idealized, one-dimensional (vertical) test cases. The model configuration represented fluvial deposition followed by periods of episodic storm resuspension. Sensitivity tests explored the influence on seabed radioisotope profiles by the intensities of bioturbation and wave resuspension and the thickness of fluvial deposits. The intensity of biodiffusion affected the persistence of fluvial event beds as evidenced by 7 Be. Both resuspension and biodiffusion increased the modeled seabed inventory of 234 Th. A thick fluvial deposit increased the seabed inventory of 7 Be and 234 Th but mixing over time greatly reduced the difference in inventory of 234 Th in fluvial deposits of different thicknesses.

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering↗
USGS2025

Beach nourishment response and recent morphological evolution of Minnesota Point, Lake Superior

Beach nourishments are a popular nature-based alternative to armoring for shoreline erosion mitigation, but nourishments have been criticized due to their environmental impacts and uncertain sustainability. Monitoring is often nonexistent or insufficient to constrain nourishment longevity and inform the renourishment interval required to maintain shoreline protection. This study uses a combination of topobathymetric surveys, high-resolution satellite-derived shorelines, and coastal engineering analyses to investigate the recent evolution of Minnesota Point and the fate of three beach nourishments constructed adjacent to littoral barriers. We use semi-empirical formulations for sediment compatibility, wave runup, and longshore sediment transport to inform the observed nourishment behavior. Minnesota Point experienced widespread foredune retreat averaging 7±2.8 m from 2009–2019 and 130,000 (70,000–140,000) m 3 of sediment was eroded during this interval. The 2019 nourishment at the Superior Entry was rapidly eroded by strong storms, losing >80% of the added beach width by the following spring. The 2020 and 2021 nourishments at the Duluth Entry retained >80% of the nourishment material at the time of the last topobathymetric survey in the fall of 2022, and satellite-derived shorelines indicate that the beach remained 10 m wider than pre-nourishment conditions at the end of 2023. Modeled longshore transport rates over the period 2009–2022 averaged 11,400 m 3 yr −1 northwestward at the Superior Entry, nearly 3x greater than the 4000 m 3 yr −1 southeastward transport modeled at the Duluth Entry. These observations show that differences in shoreline orientation, littoral sediment supply, and grain size compatibility can lead to contrasting beach nourishment longevities, and this study provides additional measurements of Minnesota Point’s long-term morphological change which can help inform coastal resiliency efforts.

Minnesota, Wisconsin↗
USGS2018

GIS-based method for estimating surficial groundwater levels in coastal Virginia using limited information

In many coastal areas, high water tables are present, complicating installation of some stormwater best management practices (BMPs) that rely on infiltration. Regional estimates of the seasonal high water table (SHWT) often rely on sources such as soil surveys taken over a decade ago; these data are static and do not account for groundwater withdrawals or other anthropogenic impacts. To improve estimates of the SHWT, we developed a GIS-based methodology relying on surface water elevations. Data sources included a 1.5-m (5.0 ft) resolution Lidar-derived digital elevation model (DEM), aerial imagery, and publicly available shapefiles of water boundaries. Twenty-six groundwater monitoring wells were screened to eliminate well locations influenced by pumping, yielding 22 wells. In coastal Virginia, tidal water bodies and ditches form terminal boundaries for discharge from the water-table aquifers and permit water table elevations to be fixed at the landward boundaries of surface water bodies. Water table elevations interpolated from well data and boundary elevations were used to create a triangulated irregular network representing the water table elevations for November 2012, which was the date of the DEM. An adjustment factor, calculated from the highest recorded April water table depth from long-term groundwater monitoring data, was added to estimate the SHWT elevation. SHWT elevations were subtracted from the DEM to yield SHWT depth, which was compared with long-term monitoring well data, yielding an R2 value of 0.91. Residual errors were random, although the method underpredicted the highest expected SHWT and overpredicted the median SHWT. The SHWT depth map was validated by using water table depths from 57 soil borings at 10 different sites, and consistently matched observations better than available soil survey estimates. The SHWT depth map could be useful for BMP siting and feasibility studies in similar hydrogeological settings.

Virginia↗
USGS2020

Sensitivity of storm response to antecedent topography in the XBeach model

Antecedent topography is an important aspect of coastal morphology when studying and forecasting coastal change hazards. The uncertainty in morphologic response of storm-impact models and their use in short-term hazard forecasting and decadal forecasting is important to account for when considering a coupled model framework. This study provided a methodology to investigate uncertainty of profile response within the storm impact model XBeach related to varying antecedent topographies. A parameterized island Gaussian fit (PIGF) model generated an idealized baseline profile and a suite of idealized profiles that vary specific characteristics based on collated observed LiDAR data from Dauphin Island, AL, USA. Six synthetic storm scenarios were simulated on each of the idealized profiles with XBeach in both 1- and 2-dimensional setups and analyzed to determine the morphological response and uncertainty related to the varied antecedent topographies. Profile morphologic response tends to scale with storm magnitude but among the varied profiles there is greater uncertainty in profile response to the medium range storm scenarios than to the low and high magnitude storm scenarios. XBeach can be highly sensitive to morphologic thresholds, both antecedent and time-varying, especially with regards to beach slope.

Alabama↗
USGS2007

Predicting seabed burial of cylinders by wave-induced scour: Application to the sandy inner shelf off Florida and Massachusetts

A simple parameterized model for wave-induced burial of mine-like cylinders as a function of grain-size, time-varying, wave orbital velocity and mine diameter was implemented and assessed against results from inert instrumented mines placed off the Indian Rocks Beach (IRB, FL), and off the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO, Edgartown, MA). The steady flow scour parameters provided by Whitehouse (1998) for self-settling cylinders worked well for predicting burial by depth below the ambient seabed for O (0.5 m) diameter mines in fine sand at both sites. By including or excluding scour pit infilling, a range of percent burial by surface area was predicted that was also consistent with observations. Rapid scour pit infilling was often seen at MVCO but never at IRB, suggesting that the environmental presence of fine sediment plays a key role in promoting infilling. Overprediction of mine scour in coarse sand was corrected by assuming a mine within a field of large ripples buries only until it generates no more turbulence than that produced by surrounding bedforms. The feasibility of using a regional wave model to predict mine burial in both hindcast and real-time forecast mode was tested using the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA, Washington, DC) WaveWatch 3 (WW3) model. Hindcast waves were adequate for useful operational forcing of mine burial predictions, but five-day wave forecasts introduced large errors. This investigation was part of a larger effort to develop simple yet reliable predictions of mine burial suitable for addressing the operational needs of the U.S. Navy. ?? 2007 IEEE.

IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering↗
USGS2021

Reinterpreting the Bruun Rule in the context of equilibrium shoreline models

Long-term (>decades) coastal recession due to sea-level rise (SLR) has been estimated using the Bruun Rule for nearly six decades. Equilibrium-based shoreline models have been shown to skillfully predict short-term wave-driven shoreline change on time scales of hours to decades. Both the Bruun Rule and equilibrium shoreline models rely on the equilibrium beach theory, which states that the beach profile shape equilibrates with its local wave and sea-level conditions. Integrating these two models into a unified framework can improve our understanding and predictive skill of future shoreline behavior. However, given that both models account for wave action, but over different time scales, a critical re-examination of the SLR-driven recession process is needed. We present a novel physical interpretation of the beach response to sea-level rise, identifying two main contributing processes: passive flooding and increased wave-driven erosion efficiency. Using this new concept, we analyze the integration of SLR-driven recession into equilibrium shoreline models and, with an idealized test case, show that the physical mechanisms underpinning the Bruun Rule are explicitly described within our integrated model. Finally, we discuss the possible advantages of integrating SLR-driven recession models within equilibrium-based models with dynamic feedbacks and the broader implications for coupling with hybrid shoreline models.

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering↗
USGS2019

Tidal variation in cohesive sediment distribution in an idealized, partially-mixed estuary

Particle settling velocity and erodibility are key factors that govern the transport of sediment through coastal environments including estuaries. These are difficult to parameterize in models that represent mud, whose properties can change in response to many factors, including tidally varying suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and shear stress. Using the COAWST (Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport) model framework, we implemented bed consolidation, sediment-induced stratification, and flocculation formulations within an idealized two-dimensional domain that represented the longitudinal dimension of a micro-tidal, muddy, partially mixed estuary. Within the Estuarine Turbidity Maximum (ETM), SSC and median floc diameter varied by a factor of four over the tidal cycle. Downstream of the ETM, the median floc size and SSC were several times smaller and showed less tidal variation (~20% or less). The suspended floc distributions only reached an equilibrium size as a function of SSC and shear in the ETM at peak tidal flow. In general, flocculation increased particle size, which reduced SSC by half in the ETM through increased settling velocity. Consolidation also limited SSC by reduced resuspension, which then limited floc growth through reduced SSC by half outside of the ETM. Sediment-induced stratification had negligible effects in the parameter space examined. Efforts to lessen the computation cost of the flocculation routine by reducing the number of size classes proved difficult; floc size distribution and SSC were sensitive to specification of size classes by factors of 60% and 300%, respectively.

Virginia↗
USGS2020

Development and application of an empirical dune growth model for evaluating barrier island recovery from storms

Coastal zone managers require models that predict barrier island change on decadal time scales to estimate coastal vulnerability, and plan habitat restoration and coastal protection projects. To meet these needs, methods must be available for predicting dune recovery as well as dune erosion. In the present study, an empirical dune growth model (EDGR) was developed to predict the evolution of the primary foredune of a barrier island. Within EDGR, an island is represented as a sum of Gaussian shape functions representing dunes, berms, and the underlying island form. The model evolves the foredune based on estimated terminal dune height and location inputs. EDGR was assessed against observed dune evolution along the western end of Dauphin Island, Alabama over the 10 years following Hurricane Katrina (2005). The root mean square error with EDGR (ranging from 0.18 to 0.74 m over the model domain) was reduced compared to an alternate no-change model (0.69–0.96 m). Hindcasting with EDGR also supports the study of dune evolution processes. At Dauphin Island, results suggest that a low-lying portion of the site was dominated by overwash for ~5 years after Katrina, before approaching their terminal height and becoming growth-limited after 2010. EDGR’s computational efficiency allows dune evolution to be rapidly predicted and enables ensemble predictions to constrain the uncertainty that may result if terminal dune characteristics are unknown. In addition, EDGR can be coupled with an external model for estimating dune erosion and/or the long-term evolution of other subaerial features to allow decadal-scale prediction of barrier island evolution.

Alabama↗
USGS2025

Vulnerability of gulf ribbed mussels to marsh surface maximum temperatures

Gulf ribbed mussels ( Geukensia granosissima ) act as ecosystem engineers and reside within the marsh platform of saltmarshes across the northern Gulf of Mexico. With climate models projecting increasing temperatures, and more frequent and extreme heat events, these mussels face increasing temperature-related risks. Marsh surface and subsurface (5-cm depth) temperature was measured continuously in the summer of 2022 in south Louisiana Gulf ribbed mussel habitat at nine stations. Marsh surface maximum temperatures were 5°C higher and more variable than recorded water temperatures, exceeding 38°C for periods of up to 3 h which generally coincided with low tides and peak solar radiation. Marsh subsurface temperatures were cooler with a lower mean and maximum temperature compared with the marsh surface, but higher than adjacent water. In two laboratory experiments the acclimated and acute thermal tolerance of wild mussels collected from the saltmarsh where temperatures were recorded, were explored. G. granosissima survived more than 40 days of continuous exposure in the laboratory to mean daily temperature values recorded for the marsh and subsurface microhabitats (28°C–34°C) but their calculated median lethal time (LT 50 ) ranged from 35 to 56 days (36°C), to less than 3 days (40°C). Mussels acclimated to temperatures similar to long-term average water temperatures (28°C–32°C) and then exposed to maximum daily temperatures acutely experienced LT 50 of less than 6 days (38°C), <1 day (40°C), and of less than 5 h (42°C). For G. granosissima both their thermal tolerance and behavioral response likely contribute to their survival in the face of extreme heat events, and their resulting distribution across the marsh surface and subsurface. Overall, results indicate that ribbed mussels in coastal Louisiana may rely on their ability to migrate vertically and bury in the marsh to avoid extreme heat exposure (temperature, duration) that may be lethal. The ability of Gulf ribbed mussels to endure short-term thermal extremes may ultimately determine the mussels' use as a tool in marsh stabilization and coastal restoration.

Louisiana↗
USGS2019

Analysis and visualization of coastal ocean model data in the cloud

The traditional flow of coastal ocean model data is from High Performance Computing (HPC) centers to the local desktop, or to a file server where just the data needed can be extracted via services such as OPeNDAP. Analysis and visualization is then conducted using local hardware and software. This requires moving large amounts of data across the internet as well as acquiring and maintaining local hardware, software and support personnel. Further, as data sets increase in size, the traditional workflow may not be scalable. Alternatively, recent advances make it possible to move data from HPC to the Cloud and perform interactive, scalable, data-proximate analysis and visualization, with simply a web browser user interface. We use the framework advanced by the NSF-funded Pangeo project, a free, open-source Python system which provides multi-user login via JupyterHub and parallel analysis via Dask, both running in Docker containers orchestrated by Kubernetes. Data is stored in the Zarr format, a Cloud-friendly ndarray format that allows performant extraction of data by anyone without relying on data services like OPeNDAP. Interactive visual exploration of data on massive model grids is made possible by new tools in the Python PyViz ecosystem, which can render maps at screen resolution, dynamically updating on pan and zoom operations. Two example are given: (1) calculating the maximum water level at each grid cell from a 53GB, 720 time step, 9 million node triangular mesh ADCIRC simulation of Hurricane Ike; (2) creating a dashboard for visualizing data from the curvilinear orthogonal COAWST/ROMS forecast model.

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering↗
USGS2023

Monitoring sediment transport pathways from an artificial nearshore berm, South Padre Island, Texas, USA, August 2018 to November 2019: Implications for coastal management

During August 2018 – November 2019, the transport pathways of dredge material from a specially constructed nearshore feeder berm were investigated as part of a collaborative study by the City of South Padre Island, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers–Galveston District, U.S. Geological Survey, Partrac GeoMarine Inc., and Texas A&M University, into the efficacy of beneficial use dredge material (BUDM) as a method of replenishing the beach profile and shoreface at South Padre Island, Texas with sediment. Dual-signature (fluorescent and ferrimagnetic) tracer particles, designed to be hydraulically equivalent to the dredge material, were placed on the berm, and a sampling program was initiated to monitor the spatiotemporal movement of tracer particles under the influence of the prevailing hydrodynamic regime. Wave and current data were collected and were used together with available metocean data to identify the forcing mechanisms of sediment transport; improved understanding garnered from the consideration of multiple datasets can be used to inform future coastal management decisions. Tracer analysis results indicated low magnitude, shoreward transport of dredge material from the berm and along shore transport in both northerly and southerly directions. Small amounts of tracer detected in beach face samples demonstrated connectivity between the constructed feeder berm and the shoreface. However, the generally low tracer concentration within beach face samples indicated low rates of sediment transport for berm sediments, and a low magnitude sediment transport pathway from the berm directly to the beach face, with possible storage of sediment in the nearshore bar system. Given that the berm was at or beyond the closure depth and considering the relatively weak prevailing near bottom hydrodynamic conditions, the potential for sediment to be mobilized and transported during the study period was generally low. Periods of higher energy waves, driven by north-northwest winds, were identified as a key driver of sediment transport but due to the infrequent nature of these events the sediment transport regime across the area of interest was temporally limited. Longshore movement of sediment was both north and south, mainly dependent on prevailing wind directions and resulting longshore currents. We discuss implications for coastal zone management and the use of feeder berms as an artificial beach nourishment mechanism to replenish sediments lost by coastal erosional processes. The insight into nearshore emplacement of material can be used by local governments and coastal managers to optimize the efficacy of berm emplacement and implement such schemes as a cost-effective nourishment option, or when onshore placement of material is not feasible.

Texas↗
USGS2016

Use of structured decision-making to explicitly incorporate environmental process understanding in management of coastal restoration projects: Case study on barrier islands of the northern Gulf of Mexico

Coastal ecosystem management typically relies on subjective interpretation of scientific understanding, with limited methods for explicitly incorporating process knowledge into decisions that must meet multiple, potentially competing stakeholder objectives. Conversely, the scientific community lacks methods for identifying which advancements in system understanding would have the highest value to decision-makers. A case in point is barrier island restoration, where decision-makers lack tools to objectively use system understanding to determine how to optimally use limited contingency funds when project construction in this dynamic environment does not proceed as expected. In this study, collaborative structured decision-making (SDM) was evaluated as an approach to incorporate process understanding into mid-construction decisions and to identify priority gaps in knowledge from a management perspective. The focus was a barrier island restoration project at Ship Island, Mississippi, where sand will be used to close an extensive breach that currently divides the island. SDM was used to estimate damage that may occur during construction, and guide repair decisions within the confines of limited availability of sand and funding to minimize adverse impacts to project objectives. Sand was identified as more limiting than funds, and unrepaired major breaching would negatively impact objectives. Repairing minor damage immediately was determined to be generally more cost effective (depending on the longshore extent) than risking more damage to a weakened project. Key gaps in process-understanding relative to project management were identified as the relationship of island width to breach formation; the amounts of sand lost during breaching, lowering, or narrowing of the berm; the potential for minor breaches to self-heal versus developing into a major breach; and the relationship between upstream nourishment and resiliency of the berm to storms. This application is a prototype for using structured decision-making in support of engineering projects in dynamic environments where mid-construction decisions may arise; highlights uncertainty about barrier island physical processes that limit the ability to make robust decisions; and demonstrates the potential for direct incorporation of process-based models in a formal adaptive management decision framework.

Mississippi↗