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Holocene coastal development on the Florida peninsula

The Florida peninsula contains five distinct coastal sections, each resulting from its own spectrum of coastal processes and sediment availability during a slowly rising, late Holocene sea level. The east coast barrier system is wave-dominated and has a large cuspate foreland (Cape Canaveral) near its middle. The Florida Keys and reef tract represent the only coastal carbonate system in the continental United States. An open-marine mangrove coast characterizes the low-energy, tide-dominated southwest part of the State. The central Gulf barrier system displays a mixed-energy morphology in a microtidal, low-energy setting. The open-coast marsh system of the Big Bend area that is north of the barrier system is also tide dominated, and is developed on a sediment-starved carbonate platform. The oldest preserved coastal Holocene section is the Florida Keys area where, at about 6 to 8 ka, sequences accumulated during the Holocene. Most of the remainder of the peninsular coast is characterized by terrigenous sequences less than 3 ka. The younger sequences accumulated almost exclusively from reworking of older strata without benefit of additional sediment supply from land.

Florida

The Piedmont landscape of Maryland: a new look at an old problem.

Both equilibrium and episodic erosion features can be recognized in the modern landscape. An equilibrium condition is suggested by adjustment of first and second order streams to rock structure and lithology, entrenchment of some streams against gneiss domes, altitudinal zonation of rock types around gneiss domes, correlation of lithology with overburden thickness on uplands, etc. The long-term episodic character of erosion is suggested by clastic wedges on the adjacent Coastal Plain, an upland of low relief that truncates non-carbonate rocks of different lithologies, isovolumetric chemical weathering of alumino-silicate rocks, clastic deposition in marble valleys, and weathering profile truncation by modern drainage. The upland surface preserved in the eastern Piedmont developed by the Late Cretaceous. In the interval from the Late Cretaceous to the Late Miocene, low input of terrigenous sediments to the Coastal Plain, dominance of marine sedimentation, and spotty evidence of saprolite formation on crystalline rocks, suggest that the Maryland Piedmont was an area of low relief undergoing intense weathering. Incised valleys were formed during a cycle of erosion probably initiated in the Late Miocene and extensive colluvial sediments were deposited on hillslopes by periglacial processes during the Pleistocene.-after Authors

Earth Surface Processes and Landforms

Patterns and controls of mercury accumulation in sediments from three thermokarst lakes on the Arctic Coastal Plain of Alaska

The biogeochemical cycle of mercury will be influenced by climate change, particularly at higher latitudes. Investigations of historical mercury accumulation in lake sediments inform future predictions as to how climate change might affect mercury biogeochemistry; however, in regions with a paucity of data, such as the thermokarst-rich Arctic Coastal Plain of Alaska (ACP), the trajectory of mercury accumulation in lake sediments is particularly uncertain. Sediment cores from three thermokarst lakes on the ACP were analyzed to understand changes in, and drivers of, Hg accumulation over the past ~ 100 years. Mercury accumulation in two of the three lakes was variable and high over the past century (91.96 and 78.6 µg/m 2 /year), and largely controlled by sedimentation rate. Mercury accumulation in the third lake was lower (14.2 µg/m 2 /year), more temporally uniform, and was more strongly related to sediment Hg concentration than sedimentation rate. Sediment mercury concentrations were quantitatively related to measures of sediment composition and VRS-inferred chlorophyll a , and sedimentation rates were related to various catchment characteristics. These results were compared to data from 37 previously studied Arctic and Alaskan lakes. Results from the meta-analysis indicate that thermokarst lakes have significantly higher and more variable Hg accumulation rates than non-thermokarst lakes, suggesting that certain properties (e.g., thermal erosion, thaw slumping, low hydraulic conductivity) likely make lakes prone to high and variable Hg accumulation rates. Differences and high variability in Hg accumulation among high latitude lakes highlight the complexity of predicting future climate-related change impacts on mercury cycling in these environments.

Alaska

A multidisciplinary coastal vulnerability assessment for local government focused on ecosystems, Santa Barbara area, California

Incorporating coastal ecosystems in climate adaptation planning is needed to maintain the well-being of both natural and human systems. Our vulnerability study uses a multidisciplinary approach to evaluate climate change vulnerability of an urbanized coastal community that could serve as a model approach for communities worldwide, particularly in similar Mediterranean climates. We synthesize projected changes in climate, coastal erosion and flooding, watershed runoff and impacts to two important coastal ecosystems, sandy beaches and coastal salt marshes. Using downscaled climate models along with other regional models, we find that temperature, extreme heat events, and sea level are expected to increase in the future, along with more intense rainfall events, despite a negligible change in annual rainfall. Consequently, more droughts are expected but the magnitude of larger flood events will increase. Associated with the continuing rise of mean sea level, extreme coastal water levels will occur with increasingly greater magnitudes and frequency. Severe flooding will occur for both natural (wetlands, beaches) and built environments (airport, harbor, freeway, and residential areas). Adaptation actions can reduce the impact of rising sea level, which will cause losses of sandy beach zones and salt marsh habitats that support the highest biodiversity in these ecosystems, including regionally rare and endangered species, with substantial impacts occurring by 2050. Providing for inland transgression of coastal habitats, effective sediment management, reduced beach grooming and removal of shoreline armoring are adaptations that would help maintain coastal ecosystems and the beneficial services they provide.

California

Coastal habitat and biological community response to dam removal on the Elwha River

Habitat diversity and heterogeneity play a fundamental role in structuring ecological communities. Dam emplacement and removal can fundamentally alter habitat characteristics, which in turn can affect associated biological communities. Beginning in the early 1900s, the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams in Washington, USA, withheld an estimated 30 million tonnes of sediment from river, coastal, and nearshore habitats. During the staged removal of these dams—the largest dam removal project in history—over 14 million tonnes of sediment were released from the former reservoirs. Our interdisciplinary study in coastal habitats—the first of its kind—shows how the physical changes to the river delta and estuary habitats during dam removal were linked to responses in biological communities. Sediment released during dam removal resulted in over a meter of sedimentation in the estuary and over 400 m of expansion of the river mouth delta landform. These changes increased the amount of supratidal and intertidal habitat, but also reduced the influx of seawater into the pre-removal estuary complex. The effects of these geomorphic and hydrologic changes cascaded to biological systems, reducing the abundance of macroinvertebrates and fish in the estuary and shifting community composition from brackish to freshwater-dominated species. Vegetation did not significantly change on the delta, but pioneer vegetation increased during dam removal, coinciding with the addition of newly available habitat. Understanding how coastal habitats respond to large-scale human stressors—and in some cases the removal of those stressors—is increasingly important as human uses and restoration activities increase in these habitats.

Washington

A Sr-Nd isotopic study of sand-sized sediment provenance and transport for the San Francisco Bay coastal system

A diverse suite of geochemical tracers, including 87 Sr/ 86 Sr and 143 Nd/ 144 Nd isotope ratios, the rare earth elements (REEs), and select trace elements were used to determine sand-sized sediment provenance and transport pathways within the San Francisco Bay coastal system. This study complements a large interdisciplinary effort (Barnard et al., 2012) that seeks to better understand recent geomorphic change in a highly urbanized and dynamic estuarine-coastal setting. Sand-sized sediment provenance in this geologically complex system is important to estuarine resource managers and was assessed by examining the geographic distribution of this suite of geochemical tracers from the primary sources (fluvial and rock) throughout the bay, adjacent coast, and beaches. Due to their intrinsic geochemical nature, 143 Nd/ 144 Nd isotopic ratios provide the most resolved picture of where sediment in this system is likely sourced and how it moves through this estuarine system into the Pacific Ocean. For example, Nd isotopes confirm that the predominant source of sand-sized sediment to Suisun Bay, San Pablo Bay, and Central Bay is the Sierra Nevada Batholith via the Sacramento River, with lesser contributions from the Napa and San Joaquin Rivers. Isotopic ratios also reveal hot-spots of local sediment accumulation, such as the basalt and chert deposits around the Golden Gate Bridge and the high magnetite deposits of Ocean Beach. Sand-sized sediment that exits San Francisco Bay accumulates on the ebb-tidal delta and is in part conveyed southward by long-shore currents. Broadly, the geochemical tracers reveal a complex story of multiple sediment sources, dynamic intra-bay sediment mixing and reworking, and eventual dilution and transport by energetic marine processes. Combined geochemical results provide information on sediment movement into and through San Francisco Bay and further our understanding of how sustained anthropogenic activities which limit sediment inputs to the system (e.g., dike and dam construction) as well as those which directly remove sediments from within the Bay, such as aggregate mining and dredging, can have long-lasting effects

California

Scalable, data-assimilated models predict large-scale shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise

Coastal change is a complex combination of multi-scale processes (e.g., wave-driven cross-shore and longshore transport; dune, bluff, and cliff erosion; overwash; fluvial and inlet sediment supply; and sea-level-driven recession). Historical sea-level-driven coastal recession on open ocean coasts is often outpaced by wave-driven change. However, future sea-level-driven coastal recession is expected to increase significantly in tandem with accelerating rates of global sea-level rise. Few models of coastal sediment transport can resolve the multitude of coastal-change processes at a given beach, and fewer still are computationally efficient enough to achieve large-scale, long-term simulations, while accounting for historical behavior and uncertainties in future climate. Here, we show that a scalable, data-assimilated shoreline-change model can achieve realistic simulations of long-term coastal change and uncertainty across large coastal regions. As part of the modeling case study of the U.S. South Atlantic Coast (Miami, Florida to Delaware Bay) presented here, we apply historical, satellite-derived observations of shoreline position combined with daily hindcasted and projected wave and sea-level conditions to estimate long-term coastal change by 2100. We find that 63 to 94% of the shorelines on the U.S. South Atlantic Coast are projected to retreat past the present-day extent of sandy beach under 1.0 to 2.0 m of sea-level rise, respectively, without large-scale interventions.

North Carolina

Sources, transport, and storage of sediment at selected sites in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed

The Chesapeake Bay Watershed covers 165,800 square kilometers and is supplied with water and sediment from five major physiographic provinces: Appalachian Plateau, Blue Ridge, Coastal Plain, Piedmont, and the Valley and Ridge. Suspended-sediment loads measured in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed showed that the Piedmont Physiographic Province has the highest rates of modern (20th Century) sediment yields, measured at U.S. Geological Survey streamflow-gaging stations, and the lowest rates of background or geologic rates of erosion (~10,000 years) measured with in situ beryllium-10. In the agricultural and urbanizing Little Conestoga Creek Watershed, a Piedmont watershed, sources of sediment using the 'sediment-fingerprinting' approach showed that streambanks were the most important source (63 percent), followed by cropland (37 percent). Cesium-137 inventories, which quantify erosion rates over a 40-year period, showed average cropland erosion of 19.39 megagrams per hectare per year in the Little Conestoga Creek Watershed. If this erosion rate is extrapolated to the 13 percent of the watershed that is in cropland, then cropland could contribute almost four times the measured suspended-sediment load transported out of the watershed (27,600 megagrams per hectare per year), indicating that much of the eroded sediment is being deposited in channel and upland storage. The Piedmont has had centuries of land-use change, from forest to agriculture, to suburban and urban areas, and in some areas, back to forest. These land-use changes mobilized a large percentage of sediment that was deposited in upland and channel storage, and behind thousands of mill dams. The effects of these land-use changes on erosion and sediment transport are still being observed today as stored sediment in streambanks is a source of sediment. Cropland is also an important source of sediment. The Coastal Plain Physiographic Province has had the lowest sediment yields in the 20th Century and with sandy soils, contributes little fine-grained sediment. In the agricultural Pocomoke River Watershed, a Coastal Plain watershed, cesium-137 mass-balance results indicate that erosion and deposition are both occurring on cropland fields. Sources of sediment using the sediment-fingerprinting approach for the Pocomoke River were distributed as follows: cropland (46 percent), ditch beds (34 percent), ditch banks and streambanks (7 percent), and forest (13 percent). Cropland was a source of sediment for the two largest peak flow events, which occurred during harvesting when the ground may have been bare. The Pocomoke River Watershed is heavily ditched and channelized, conditions that are favorable for ditch bed and bank erosion. In the mixed land use (forested, agricultural, and urbanizing) Mattawoman Creek Watershed, a Coastal Plain watershed, sources of sediment using the sediment-fingerprinting approach were distributed as follows: streambanks (30 percent), forest (29 percent), construction (25 percent), and cropland (17 percent). Mattawoman Creek Watershed drains a rapidly developing region with 182 hectares (approximately 1.26 percent of the watershed) under construction. Sediment from construction sites was also determined as a source of sediment in the Mattawoman Creek Watershed. The sediment-fingerprinting source results for the three watersheds analyzed, show that in all watersheds, both the stream corridor and agriculture were significant sources of sediment. Forest as a source of sediment in the Mattawoman Creek Watershed may indicate that these forests are being disturbed and forest soils are eroding. Bare ground can be an important sediment source. Spatial analysis of bare ground in the Little Conestoga Creek Watershed using satellite imagery between 2000 and 2005 showed that the majority of bare ground was classified as pasture. Bare ground was correlated to the growing season with the highest percentages occurring in the early spring (April, 34 percent) and a

Chesapeake Bay Watershed

Sediment dynamics of a divergent bay–marsh complex

Bay–marsh systems, composed of an embayment surrounded by fringing marsh incised by tidal channels, are widely distributed coastal environments. External sediment availability, marsh-edge erosion, and sea-level rise acting on such bay–marsh complexes may drive diverse sediment-flux regimes. These factors reinforce the ephemeral and dynamic nature of fringing marshes: material released by marsh-edge erosion becomes part of a bay–marsh exchange that fuels the geomorphic evolution of the coupled system. The dynamics of this sediment exchange determine the balance among seaward export, deposition on the embayment seabed, flux into tidal channels, and import to the marsh platform. In this work, we investigate the sediment dynamics of a transgressive bay–marsh complex and link them to larger-scale considerations of its geomorphic trajectory. Grand Bay, Alabama/Mississippi, is a shallow microtidal embayment surrounded by salt marshes with lateral erosion rates of up to 5 m year −1 . We collected 6 months of oceanographic data at four moorings within Grand Bay and its tidal channels to assess hydrographic conditions and net sediment-flux patterns and augmented the observations with numerical modeling. The observations imply a divergent sedimentary system in which a majority of the suspended sediment is exported seaward, while a smaller fraction is imported landward via tidal channels, assisting in vertical marsh-plain accumulation, maintenance of channel and intertidal-flat morphologies, and landward transgression. These results describe a dynamic system that is responsive to episodic atmospheric forcing in the absence of a strong tidal signal and the presence of severe lateral marsh loss.

Alabama, Mississippi

Sediment export by ice rafting from a coastal Polynya, Arctic Alaska, U.S.A.

Strong offshore winds in early 1989 produced a shore polynya that reached along the entire north coast of Alaska and eastward beyond the mouth of the Mackenzie River in Canada. From January through April, this open water periodically exposed the shelf to sediment entrainment by suspension freezing. This process requires turbulence and supercooled water, which results in the formation of frazil and anchor ice. The resulting granular, sediment-laden ice was observed to extend over 100 km seaward of the outer continental shelf after having been advected offshore. It was sampled to determine sediment type and to quantify the particle load. The particle size was mainly silt and clay, with local admixtures of as much as 27% sand and coarser clasts. Melted ice samples contained from 31 to nearly 600 mg L -1 of sediment. Combining these data with over 400 km of shipboard and aerial observations, photographs, and computer analysis of a summer Landsat image, we estimated the sediment load per unit area of sea ice. Seaward of the shelf, in regions of dense pack ice, a conservatively estimated sediment load was over 289 t km -2 . Using a westward summer drift rate of 3 cm s -1 , the sediment transport through a 1-km-long north-south segment is 67,418 t during 3 mo. In terms of regional sediment dynamics (littoral transport estimated at 10,000 t during the same period) and sediment budget (continental denudation estimated at 10 t km -2 during the same period), this number is very significant. Benthic microfossils indicate that bottom sediment incorporated in the ice came from water depths ranging from the inner neritic seaward to 50 m. The large load of shelf-derived sediment observed seaward of the continental shelf indicates that ice entrainment and transport cause shelf erosion. Nothing is known about sediment release over the Arctic Ocean Basin from these pulses of dirty ice that are periodically introduced into the Transpolar Drift.

Alaska

Sediment transport patterns in the San Francisco Bay Coastal System from cross-validation of bedform asymmetry and modeled residual flux

The morphology of ~ 45,000 bedforms from 13 multibeam bathymetry surveys was used as a proxy for identifying net bedload sediment transport directions and pathways throughout the San Francisco Bay estuary and adjacent outer coast. The spatially-averaged shape asymmetry of the bedforms reveals distinct pathways of ebb and flood transport. Additionally, the region-wide, ebb-oriented asymmetry of 5% suggests net seaward-directed transport within the estuarine-coastal system, with significant seaward asymmetry at the mouth of San Francisco Bay (11%), through the northern reaches of the Bay (7-8%), and among the largest bedforms (21% for λ > 50 m). This general indication for the net transport of sand to the open coast strongly suggests that anthropogenic removal of sediment from the estuary, particularly along clearly defined seaward transport pathways, will limit the supply of sand to chronically eroding, open-coast beaches. The bedform asymmetry measurements significantly agree (up to ~ 76%) with modeled annual residual transport directions derived from a hydrodynamically-calibrated numerical model, and the orientation of adjacent, flow-sculpted seafloor features such as mega-flute structures, providing a comprehensive validation of the technique. The methods described in this paper to determine well-defined, cross-validated sediment transport pathways can be applied to estuarine-coastal systems globally where bedforms are present. The results can inform and improve regional sediment management practices to more efficiently utilize often limited sediment resources and mitigate current and future sediment supply-related impacts.

California

Late Pleistocene to Holocene sedimentation and hydrocarbon seeps on the continental shelf of a steep, tectonically active margin, southern California, USA

Small, steep, uplifting coastal watersheds are prolific sediment producers that contribute significantly to the global marine sediment budget. This study illustrates how sedimentation evolves in one such system where the continental shelf is largely sediment-starved, with most terrestrial sediment bypassing the shelf in favor of deposition in deeper basins. The Santa Barbara-Ventura coast of southern California, USA, is considered a classic area for the study of active tectonics and of Tertiary and Quaternary climatic evolution, interpretations of which depend upon an understanding of sedimentation patterns. High-resolution seismic-reflection data over >570 km 2 of this shelf show that sediment production is concentrated in a few drainage basins, with the Ventura and Santa Clara River deltas containing most of the upper Pleistocene to Holocene sediment on the shelf. Away from those deltas, the major factor controlling shelf sedimentation is the interaction of wave energy with coastline geometry. Depocenters containing sediment 5-20 m thick exist opposite broad coastal embayments, whereas relict material (bedrock below a regional unconformity) is exposed at the sea floor in areas of the shelf opposite coastal headlands. Locally, natural hydrocarbon seeps interact with sediment deposition either to produce elevated tar-and-sediment mounds or as gas plumes that hinder sediment settling. As much as 80% of fluvial sediment delivered by the Ventura and Santa Clara Rivers is transported off the shelf (some into the Santa Barbara Basin and some into the Santa Monica Basin via Hueneme Canyon), leaving a shelf with relatively little recent sediment accumulation. Understanding factors that control large-scale sediment dispersal along a rapidly uplifting coast that produces substantial quantities of sediment has implications for interpreting the ancient stratigraphic record of active and transform continental margins, and for inferring the distribution of hydrocarbon resources in relict shelf deposits.

Marine Geophysical Research

Trace metal seasonal variations in Texas marine sediments

Trace elements in coastal environments are derived from three major sources: (1) the bordering watershed; (2) the offshore marine environment; and (3) industrial and/or urban effluent. The site of deposition, however, is controlled by physical and chemical processes in the coastal zone. In many cases, these processes are controlled by climate and can vary seasonally. In the harbor at Corpus Christi, Texas, the summer climate creates an oxygen-poor environment in the water column near the sediment-water interface. This causes chalcophilic metals to precipitate from the water, resulting in high concentrations in the sediments near the source. During the winter, turbulence created by strong winds causes the entire water mass to become aerated and oxidizing, and remobilization of some metals results. In addition, this turbulence accelerates circulation which transports the metal-enriched waters from the harbor. On the outer continental shelf of south Texas, the infaunal activity varies seasonally with bottom water temperatures. As this infaunal activity has an effect on the chemical environment within the sediment near the sediment-water interface, the observed trace metal content at the interface also appears to change with the seasons.

Texas

Microbial transformations of arsenic: Mobilization from glauconitic sediments to water

In the Inner Coastal Plain of New Jersey, arsenic (As) is released from glauconitic sediment to carbon- and nutrient-rich shallow groundwater. This As-rich groundwater discharges to a major area stream. We hypothesize that microbes play an active role in the mobilization of As from glauconitic subsurface sediments into groundwater in the Inner Coastal Plain of New Jersey. We have examined the potential impact of microbial activity on the mobilization of arsenic from subsurface sediments into the groundwater at a site on Crosswicks Creek in southern New Jersey. The As contents of sediments 33–90 cm below the streambed were found to range from 15 to 26.4 mg/kg, with siderite forming at depth. Groundwater beneath the streambed contains As at concentrations up to 89 μg/L. Microcosms developed from site sediments released 23 μg/L of As, and active microbial reduction of As(V) was observed in microcosms developed from site groundwater. DNA extracted from site sediments was amplified with primers for the 16S rRNA gene and the arsenate respiratory reductase gene, arrA , and indicated the presence of a diverse anaerobic microbial community, as well as the presence of potential arsenic-reducing bacteria. In addition, high iron (Fe) concentrations in groundwater and the presence of iron-reducing microbial genera suggests that Fe reduction in minerals may provide an additional mechanism for release of associated As, while arsenic-reducing microorganisms may serve to enhance the mobility of As in groundwater at this site.

New Jersey

Process-based models and studies of coastal change to inform habitat restoration and climate change adaptation

Puget Sound salmon and estuary recovery strategies identify tens of thousands of acres of floodplain and estuary habitat restoration needed to re-establish ecosystem functions lost or degraded from western land use (Simenstad et al., 2011); the extent for nearshore habitat remains uncertain. Sediment is critical for shaping the structure and functions of these ecosystems and the success of many habitat recovery strategies. This is particularly important in the Pacific Northwest, where high sediment flux through the coastal zone makes it a more dynamic ecosystem driver than other regions where estuary restoration guidance has been developed and especially for extensive marshes and floodplains that have subsided due to lost sediment delivery from placement of flow control (flood protection) structures (Grossman et al., 2020). Fluvial sediment delivery to Puget Sound is expected to greatly increase in many systems under projected climate change (Lee et al., 2016), requiring better models and tools to evaluate complex ecosystem responses. Guidance for estuary habitat recovery (e.g., Clancy et al., 2009) rests on a paradigm of restoring historic habitats and connectivity by simply removing or lowering levees assuming sediment delivery and accumulation will occur. Outcomes of several restoration projects and studies show that restoring “opportunity” for sediment delivery may not be enough. Improved knowledge and predictive models of land-use and climate change effects on sediment budgets, sediment properties, and coastal change can refine restoration guidance to evaluate quantitative expectations for sediment flux, composition, accumulation, and timing critical to achieving more effective recovery, resilience, and community support.

Conference Paper

Wave asymmetry impacts on sediment processes at the nearshore of Fire Island, New York

Effects of wave asymmetry on sediment processes and coastal evolution were investigated using a field data set and a numerical model. Field observations at the nearshore of Fire Island, New York revealed sediment fluxes during various wave energy levels. The preliminary results indicate a strong correlation between the wave asymmetry and the onshore bedload fluxes. The model results captured the observed hydrodynamics and the sediment processes reasonably well. Ongoing work involves in-depth analysis of the model performance, followed by the evaluation of the nearshore morphodynamics at the island and shelf scales.

New York

Discerning sediment provenance in the Outer Banks (USA) through detrital zircon geochronology

Detrital zircon data from modern barrier island and estuarine environments in the Outer Banks (Atlantic Coast, USA) were statistically compared to sands from nearby rivers to assist in determining source-to-sink pathways. Fluvial samples, collected from near the Fall Line contact between the Appalachian Orogen and sediments of the coastal plain, all have age unique distributions, making them ideal for tracing provenance. Three samples from the Atlantic foreshore showed high similarities to one another, as well as to three samples from the estuarine (back-barrier) Pamlico and Albemarle Sounds. Mixture modeling with multiple data reduction methods and three different statistical tests for similarity consistently indicated that the nearby Potomac River was the primary source for all Atlantic foreshore and estuarine zircons, followed by minor contributions from the James River in some models. The models indicate little or no sediment contribution from the Susquehanna, Roanoke, Tar, Neuse, Cape Fear, and Peedee Rivers. Both Atlantic foreshore and estuarine sands are therefore interpreted to have initially originated from Appalachian bedrock to the north of their present-day location, and subsequently to have been transported southward through the Chesapeake Bay watershed before deposition in Virginia and North Carolina. Prior to barrier island formation in the last several thousand years, differing geomorphology of the Chesapeake Bay facilitated southward movement of sediments from its constituent rivers via longshore drift, where they were deposited in coastal settings on the mainland. The modern barrier islands, formed during the most recent post-glacial transgression, may be reworked from these deposits, but may also include a contribution from sediments that were derived more recently from relict deposits on the shelf. Oceanographic and sedimentological evidence suggests that movement of sand-sized grains from southern rivers across the back-barrier sounds is unlikely. These findings can assist with coastal resilience planning and resource management in a region under severe threat from climate change and rising sea levels.

North Carolina, Virgina

Controls of tectonics and sediment source locations on along-strike variations in transgressive deposits on the northern California margin

We identify two surfaces in the shallow subsurface on the Eel River margin offshore northern California, a lowstand erosion surface, likely formed during the last glacial maximum, and an overlying surface likely formed during the most recent transgression of the shoreline. The lowstand erosion surface, which extends from the inner shelf to near the shelfbreak and from the Eel River to Trinidad Head (???80 km), truncates underlying strata on the shelf. Above the surface, inferred transgressive coastal and estuarine sedimentary units separate it from the transgressive surface on the shelf. Early in the transgression, Eel River sediment was likely both transported down the Eel Canyon and dispersed on the slope, allowing transgressive coastal sediment from the smaller Mad River to accumulate in a recognizable deposit on the shelf. The location of coastal Mad River sediment accumulation was controlled by the location of the paleo-Mad River. Throughout the remainder of the transgression, dispersed sediment from the Eel River accumulated an average of 20 m of onlapping shelf deposits. The distribution and thickness of these transgressive marine units was strongly modified by northwest-southeast trending folds. Thick sediment packages accumulated over structural lows in the lowstand surface. The thinnest sediment accumulations (0-10 m) were deposited over structural highs along faults and uplifting anticlines. The Eel margin, an active margin with steep, high sediment-load streams, has developed a thick transgressive systems tract. On this margin sediment accumulates as rapidly as the processes of uplift and downwarp locally create and destroy accommodation space. Sequence stratigraphic models of tectonically active margins should account for variations in accommodation space along margins as well as across them. ?? 2003 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Marine Geology