Geology ReportsSearch

Geology topics

Timothy Nelson

Publications and source records attributed to Timothy Nelson.

4 recordsLinked to original sources

Method for observing breach geomorphic evolution: Satellite observation of the Fire Island Wilderness breach

Satellite derived shorelines are extracted using the Google Earth Engine API for Landsat and Sentinel satellites from 1984 through 2018. These shorelines are evaluated against existing surveys and show satellite-derived breach shorelines are in good agreement with directly-observed shorelines and capture the trend of the Fire Island wilderness breach evolution. Results of this study show the wilderness breach resulted in down drift shoreline erosion at a rate greater than the historical average within 4 km of the breach. This study demonstrates the benefits of utilizing satellite observations for monitoring the full extent of breach development and resulting shoreline changes.

New York

Morphodynamic modelling of the wilderness breach, Fire Island, New York. Part I: Model set-up and validation

On October 29, 2012, storm surge and large waves produced by Hurricane 13 Sandy resulted in the formation of a breach in eastern Fire Island, NY. The goals of this study 14 are to gain a better understanding of the physical processes that govern breach behavior and 15 to assess whether process-based models can be used to forecast the evolution of future 16 breaches. The Wilderness Breach grew rapidly in size during the first winter following 17 formation. Growth of the breach was accompanied by the formation of a complex of flood 18 shoals inside Great South Bay, a primary channel that flowed through the eastern part of the 19 flood shoals, and an ebb shoal on the ocean side of the breach. From the summer of 2013 20 through late 2015, the breach continued to change and evolve, albeit at a much slower pace 21 than in the first year after formation. A hybrid combination of Delft3D and XBeach models is 22 used to hindcast the morphodynamic evolution of the Wilderness Breach over the first three 23 years after formation. The formation of the breach during Hurricane Sandy is not part of the 24 simulations. Model simulations are initiated with a post-storm topography in which the 25 breach is already present. The models are capable of hindcasting the main morphodynamic 26 changes of the Wilderness Breach. The spatial patterns, as well as the bulk statistics, such as 27 2 breach geometry and sediment volume changes, are reasonably 28 well reproduced by the model. 29 The model sheds light on previously unknown processes of breach evolution, especially 30 regarding sediment transport and flow regimes within the breach complex.

New York

Characterizing storm response and recovery using the beach change envelope: Fire Island, New York

Hurricane Sandy at Fire Island, New York presented unique challenges in the quantification of storm impacts using traditional metrics of coastal change, wherein measured changes (shoreline, dune crest, and volume change) did not fully reflect the substantial changes in sediment redistribution following the storm. We used a time series of beach profile data at Fire Island, New York to define a new contour-based morphologic change metric, the Beach Change Envelope (BCE). The BCE quantifies changes to the upper portion of the beach likely to sustain measurable impacts from storm waves and capture a variety of storm and post-storm beach states. We evaluated the ability of the BCE to characterize cycles of beach change by relating it to a conceptual beach recovery regime, and demonstrated that BCE width and BCE height from the profile time series correlate well with established stages of recovery. We also investigated additional applications of this metric to capture impacts from storms and human modification by applying it to several post-storm historical datasets in which impacts varied considerably; Nor'Ida (2009), Hurricane Irene (2011), Hurricane Sandy (2012), and a 2009 community replenishment. In each case, the BCE captured distinctive upper beach morphologic change characteristic of these different beach building and erosional events. Analysis of the beach state at multiple profile locations showed spatial trends in recovery consistent with recent morphologic island evolution, which other studies have linked with sediment availability and the geologic framework. Ultimately we demonstrate a new way of more effectively characterizing beach response and recovery cycles to evaluate change along sandy coasts.

New York