S.A. Hsu | Geology Reports

USGS2006

Theoretical and measured aeolian sand transport on a barrier island, Louisiana, USA

Over the past 100 years, the Isles Dernieres, a low lying barrier island chain along the coast of central Louisiana, U sa , has undergone more than 1 km of northward beach face retreat with the loss of 70% of its surface area. The erosion results from a long term relative sea level rise coupled with day to day wind and wave action that ultimately favours erosion over deposition. At a site in the central Isles Dernieres, 8 days of wind and beach profile measurements during the passage of one winter cold front documented aeolian erosion and deposition patterns under both onshore and offshore winds. For offshore winds, the theoretical erosion rate, based on wind shear velocity, closely matched the measured erosion rate; for onshore winds, the theoretical rate matched the measured rate only after being corrected by a factor that accounted for beach face morphology. In late February 1989, a strong cold front moved into coastal Louisiana. That cold front stalled over the Gulf of Mexico, resulting in 4 days of strong northerly winds at a study site on the Isles Dernieres. During those 4 days, the wind moved sand from the backshore to the upper beach face. When the cold front finally moved out of the area, the wind shifted to the south and decreased in strength. The onshore wind then restored some of the upper beach face sand to the backshore while increased wave activity moved the rest into the nearshore. The theoretical estimate of 1·28 m 3 m −1 for the rate of sand transport by the northerly wind compares well with the measured backshore erosion rate of 1·26 m 3 m −1 , which was determined by comparing beach profiles from the start and end of the period of northerly winds. The theoretical estimate of 0·04 m 3 m −1 for the rate of sand transport by the southerly wind, however, is notably less than the measured rate of 0·45 m 3 m −1 . The large discrepancy between the two rates can be explained by a difference in the shear velocity of the wind between the beach face, where the erosion occurred, and the backshore, where the wind stress was measured. Using an empirical relationship for the wind shear drag coefficient as a function of coastal environment, the theoretical estimate for the rate of sand transport by the southerly wind becomes 0·44 m 3 m −1 .

Louisiana↗

USGS1995

Wind shear stress measurements in a coastal marsh during Hurricane Andrew

Hurricane Andrew produced changes to the Louisiana wetlands not normally observed after lesser, more common storms. For example, the <25 m/s wind speeds generated by cold fronts and winter storms, and any accompanying storm surge, do not cause substantial, wide-spread alteration of marsh vegetation. During Hurricane Andrew, however, the wind, the wind-driven storm surge, or both produced severe, wide-spread wetland alteration, especially in areas that primarily consisted of densely vegetated floating mats. In a few hours, vegetated brackish marsh was severely torn and large areas were converted to open water, a process that takes decades when driven by geologic subsidence, human intervention, and lesser storms. During the passage of Hurricane Andrew, wind measurements were taken inside an impoundment within a brackish part of Louisiana's coastal wetlands system. At its closest point, the site lay 50 km to the right of the north-trending storm track, placing it in or near the zone of maximum wind (the eye wall). As the hurricane approached, the wind blew from the north; after it passed, the wind direction swung around to the southeast. Several hours after the eye passed, the southeasterly wind drove a 1.5-m storm surge through the area, causing the collapse of the meteorology tower. Wind shear stress calculations, based on data from two vertically stacked sensors, showed a direct correlation between wind shear stress and wind speed. The greatest increase in wind shear stress occurred when wind speed exceeded 20 m/s. Overall, wind shear stress increased more than three orders of magnitude — from approximately 0.01 N/m² at a wind speed of 6 m/s through 1 N/m² at 20 m/s to 18 N/m² at the maximum sustained speed of 43 m/s. Drag-coefficient calculations show that the open-ocean CD formulations, such as the popular WAMDI model, cannot be employed for wetland use because it overestimates CD for velocities less than approximately 20 m/s and underestimates it for higher velocities.

Louisiana↗