Renan da Silva | Geology Reports

USGS2021

A numerical study of wave-driven mean flows and setup dynamics at a coral reef-lagoon system

Two-dimensional mean wave-driven flow and setup dynamics were investigated at a reef-lagoon system at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, using the numerical wave-flow model, SWASH. Phase-resolved numerical simulations of the wave and flow fields, validated with highly detailed field observations (including >10 sensors through the energetic surf zone), were used to quantify the main mechanisms that govern the mean momentum balances and resulting mean current and setup patterns, with particular attention to the role of nonlinear wave shapes. Momentum balances from the phase-resolved model indicated that onshore flows near the reef crest were primarily driven by the wave force (dominated by radiation stress gradients) due to intense breaking, whereas the flow over the reef flat and inside the lagoon and channels was primarily driven by a pressure gradient. Wave setup inside the lagoon was primarily controlled by the wave force and bottom stress. The bottom stress reduced the setup on the reef flat and inside the lagoon. Excluding the bottom stress contribution in the setup balance resulted in an over prediction of the wave-setup inside the lagoon by up to 200–370%. The bottom stress was found to be caused by the combined presence of onshore directed wave-driven currents and (nonlinear) waves. Exclusion of the bottom stress contribution from nonlinear wave shapes led to an over prediction of the setup inside the lagoon by approximately 20–40%. The inclusion of the nonlinear wave shape contribution to the bottom stress term was found to be particularly relevant in reef regions that experience a net onshore mass flux over the reef crest.

Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans↗

USGS2020

Modeling three-dimensional flow over spur-and-groove morphology

Spur-and-groove (SAG) morphology characterizes the fore reef of many coral reefs worldwide. Although the existence and geometrical properties of SAG have been well documented, an understanding of the hydrodynamics over them is limited. Here, the three-dimensional flow patterns over SAG formations, and a sensitivity of those patterns to waves, currents, and SAG geometry were characterized using the physics-based Delft3D-FLOW and SWAN models. Shore-normal shoaling waves over SAG formations were shown to drive two circulation cells: a cell on the lower fore reef with offshore flow over the spurs and onshore flow over the grooves, except near the seabed where velocities were always onshore, and a cell on the upper fore reef with offshore surface velocities and onshore bottom currents, which result in depth-averaged onshore and offshore flow over the spurs and grooves, respectively. The mechanism driving this flow results from the net of the radiation stress gradients and pressure gradient, which is balanced by the Reynolds stress gradients and bottom friction that differ over the spur and over the groove. Waves were the primary driver of variations in modelled flow over SAG, with the flow strength increasing for increasing wave heights and periods. Spur height, SAG wavelength, and the water depth at peak spur height were the dominant influences on the hydrodynamics, with spur heights directly proportional to the strength of SAG circulation cells. SAG formations with shorter SAG wavelengths only presented one circulation cell on the shallower portion of the reef, as opposed to the two circulation cells for longer SAG wavelengths. SAG formations with peak spur heights occurring in shallower water had stronger circulation than those with peak spur heights occurring in deeper water. These hydrodynamic patterns also likely affect coral and reef development through sediment and nutrient fluxes.

Coral Reefs↗