Geology topics

Jonathan A. Warrick

Publications and source records attributed to Jonathan A. Warrick.

At least 19 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2026

Shoreline behavior at California groin fields from satellite-based measurements

Satellite imagery has helped to provide decades of shoreline change data to coastal regions all over the world. Although shorelines around the globe have been armored with different types of coastal structures to try and protect beaches and properties from erosion, there are few studies of shoreline dynamics within structures such as groin fields using satellite images. Here we apply satellite-derived shoreline techniques to three areas of California: Ventura, Santa Monica, and Newport Beach, each site containing groin fields of varying number and length. Shoreline trends during 1984–2022 reveal that the presence of these coastal structures may alter the overall shoreline variability at these locations. Peclet numbers have been calculated for each site to better characterize the variability of longshore transport within and across the study areas and to compare with shoreline change characteristics. The satellite-derived shoreline data reveal offsets or “steps” in the shoreline position across the groins with sediment pilling up on one side more than the other due to longshore transport. The magnitudes and dynamics of these shoreline offsets were measured from satellite techniques, and we find that the average offsets are commonly related to groin length. Some shoreline offsets reveal seasonal patterns, with Newport Beach having the largest seasonal patterns of the three sites. We find that these seasonal patterns in shoreline offsets at the Newport Beach groins are related to the seasonal variability in wave direction and littoral transport. We conclude that satellite-derived shoreline techniques with Landsat and Sentinel-2 imagery are adequate to characterize shoreline behaviors within the complex coastal settings of groin fields.

California↗

USGS2026

Patterns and drivers of cliff erosion in Big Sur, California, USA using repeat photogrammetry, 2017–2023

Seacliff erosion in steep terrain poses major risks to transportation and critical infrastructure. In Big Sur, California, USA, seacliff erosion threatens the sustainability of the central coast stretch of California State Route 1, a transportation corridor that is critical to the region's economy. Published cliff retreat rates for the region range from 1 to 40 cm yr −1 , highlighting that high-resolution, process-based studies could enhance understanding of the causes of spatial and temporal variability. We quantified cliff erosion and investigated its drivers along ∼13 km of the Big Sur coastline at week–month timescales during the late fall to early spring wet seasons between January 2017 and June 2023 by analyzing 3D point clouds developed from aerial imagery using four-dimensional structure-from-motion (4D SfM) photogrammetry techniques. We calculated cliff face retreat rates of 2.23 ± 3.06 cm yr −1 (mean ±1 σ ), an order of magnitude lower than long-term estimated rates for the region (which included large deep-seated landslides), but in line with short-term rates reported across California. Change detection imagery comparison, cliff profiles through time, and statistical analysis reveal a cyclical cliff evolution process in which erosion by wave action at the cliff base destabilizes the cliff and primes it for subsequent failure during precipitation events. Although more erosion by volume could be attributed to precipitation-induced increases in soil moisture (784 m 3 km −1 yr −1 ) compared with erosion attributed to wave power (282 m 3 km −1 yr −1 ), our observations underscore the coupled nature of these processes in driving cliff evolution, consistent with established theory and observations.

California↗

USGS2026

Net widening of Southern California beaches

Human impacts from dams reduce river sediment fluxes and are primary causes of coastal erosion worldwide. Here we provide new satellite-derived shoreline observation techniques to examine beach area trends across the diverse coastal settings of California. Contrary to global trends, these data reveal that the most heavily urbanized and dammed region of southern California experienced net beach growth of over 2 million m 2 during 1984-2024. While several beaches experienced severe erosion, overall widening is explained by sufficient sediment supply and concentrated widening from longshore transport captured at coastal structures and in littoral convergence zones. These results indicate that adequate sediment sources exist in this human-modified landscape to mitigate coastal erosion, but that this sediment is not effectively distributed to vulnerable beaches. This highlights the critical role that longshore sediment transport plays in long-term beach trends and illuminates management opportunities for coastal sustainability at the regional scale.

California↗

USGS2025

Comparisons of shoreline positions from satellite-derived and traditional field- and remote-sensing techniques

Satellite-derived shorelines (SDS) have the potential to help researchers answer critical coastal science questions and support work to predict coastal change by filling in the spatial and temporal gaps present in current field-based and remote-sensing data collection methods. The U.S. Geological Survey conducted comparison analyses of traditionally sourced shorelines and SDS in diverse coastal landscapes to determine how SDS could be used in ongoing and future work across varied coastal environments and provided some initial findings that could be used for implementation. Using CoastSeg, a browser-based program for SDS detection and mapping, SDS for the period 1984–2023 for multiple locations across the United States were compared to shoreline positions from traditionally sourced shoreline data. In this report, the authors present these comparisons alongside lessons learned and challenges encountered when building SDS workflows in different coastal locations. Results show that individual SDS have larger uncertainty and yet produced similar linear trends to sparser, traditionally sourced shoreline data; because SDS methods provide orders of magnitude more data than traditional shoreline-detection methods, they can be used to evaluate shoreline behaviors. Refining average scalar slopes used in tidal corrections did not result in substantial decreases in uncertainty. Using lessons from this work to outline needs for regional implementation, initial setup time would be considerable, being on the order of weeks. However, once complete, shoreline detections and analyses are fast (on the order of minutes to hours) and achievable using a desktop computer.

Alaska, Florida, Massachusetts, Washington↗

USGS2025

Landsliding follows signatures of wildfire history and vegetative regrowth in a steep coastal shrubland

Five years after the deadly and destructive 9 January 2018 Montecito debris flows (Santa Barbara County, California, USA), an atmospheric river storm on 9 January 2023 triggered widespread landsliding that affected many of the same drainages in the Santa Ynez Mountains. Using high-resolution aerial imagery, we identified >10,000 landslides over an ∼160 km 2 area. Most of the landslides were shallow (<1 m in depth) translational debris slides that initiated on steep (∼40°), south-facing hillslopes, with the highest incidence of landsliding in a sandstone-dominated bedrock unit. The landslides mobilized into debris flows and delivered substantial quantities of sediment downstream, which contributed to costly infrastructure impairments. We detected order-of-magnitude differences in landslide density across the study area that could not be attributed to variations in geomorphology (topographic aspect and slope), geology (bedrock type), or hydrology (seasonal antecedent rainfall, peak hourly storm rainfall intensity, total storm rainfall), which are usually considered relevant factors for shallow landsliding. Rather, we found that vegetation regrowth following wildfire was likely a relevant factor associated with the highly variable landslide densities. Hillslopes with less and different types of vegetation regrowth after fire appear to have been more susceptible to shallow landslides. We identify a possible vegetation control on postfire landsliding, which highlights an opportunity for hypothesis testing using more advanced techniques to track the evolution of vegetation cover and vegetation type in steep shrubland environments following wildfire.

California↗

USGS2025

Seasonal rotation of California pocket beaches

Pocket beaches are short, headland-bound coastal landforms that may exhibit shoreline rotation in response to time-varying wave conditions. Here we examine the presence, location and style of pocket beach rotation along the 1700 km coast of California using a comprehensive 22-year satellite-derived shoreline dataset. These analyses identify 23 pocket beaches that exhibit annual cycles of rotation, and these beaches have two general types. In southern California, pocket beaches rotate clockwise, or towards the south, in the winter season (‘winter southward’ transport of sand). These beaches have symmetric rotation patterns and strong seasonality in wave direction (winter west swell and summer south swell), which is indicative of rotation from seasonal oscillations in longshore sediment transport. In northern California, pocket beaches rotate counterclockwise, or towards the north, in the winter (‘winter northward’ transport of sand), and they are characterized by strong asymmetry (winter beach is overall narrower than the summer beach) and strong seasonality in wave power. Rotation of these northern California beaches is related to both cross-shore and longshore sediment transport, caused by large west-to-northwest swell of the winter and smaller northwest wind waves of the summer. We acknowledge that many more rotating pocket beaches likely exist in California owing to the undersampling of the smallest beaches in the source data. In the end, we conclude that seasonally rotating pocket beaches are a fundamental coastal landform type of the California coast, owing to its wave seasonality and rocky and cliff-backed morphology.

California↗

USGS2025

Coastal fine-grained sediment plumes from beach nourishment near Santa Barbara, California

Terrestrial sediments captured by flood control facilities such as dams, debris basins, and engineered stream channels can reduce sediment fluxes to littoral cells. The beneficial use of these sediments for beach nourishment may induce negative environmental effects from turbidity or sedimentation caused by the source material. Here, we examine the size and extent of turbid coastal plumes produced by beach nourishment with sediment containing significant fine-grained (silt and clay) fractions near Santa Barbara, California, to evaluate the potential effects of beneficial use of fluvial sediment captured in upstream facilities. Using remotely sensed imagery and hydrodynamic and sediment transport model simulations, we find that wave height, wind speed and direction, and sediment settling velocity have strong controls on the direction and extent of the turbid plume produced by beach nourishment. These results are consistent with monitored nourishment projects, suggesting generalizable patterns and processes across the studies. Additionally, we find that sediment placement method (hauling versus dredging) can influence the magnitude and duration of fine-sediment concentrations in the adjacent coastal waters. Combined, these results will inform sediment management strategies that intend to minimize the environmental effects of beach nourishment within the study area and across similar coastal sites.

California↗

USGS2025

River floods under wetter antecedent conditions deliver coarser sediment to the coast

Increasing hydrologic volatility—more extreme rain, and larger variations between wet and dry years—has become apparent in some regions, but few data exist to determine how intensifying hydrologic extremes affect sedimentary systems. Using uniquely high-resolution records of fluvial suspended sediment and coastal morphology, we quantify sedimentary responses from a steep, 357-km 2 watershed in California under extreme wet and dry hydrologic conditions. In years with multiple 2- to 10-year floods, fluvial sediment coarsened significantly as the wet season progressed, with late-season floods delivering dominantly sand-sized material to the coast. Greater and coarser sediment supply under wetter antecedent conditions affected nearshore geomorphic evolution for 4–5 years. The watershed and coastal changes we documented point to an increasing role of sediment-related hazards (flooding and hillslope erosion) and resources (nearshore accretion) as wet seasons intensify.

California↗

USGS2025

Shoreline seasonality of California’s beaches

We report on remote sensing techniques developed to characterize seasonal shoreline cycles from satellite-derived shoreline measurements. These techniques are applied to 22-yr of shoreline measurements for over 777 km of beach along California's 1,700-km coast, for which the general understanding is that shorelines exhibit winter-narrow and summer-recovery seasonality. We find that approximately 90% of beach transects exhibit significant and recurring seasonal cycles in the shoreline position. Seasonal shoreline excursions are twice as large in northern and central California (17.5–32.2 m) than southern California (7.3–15.9 m; interquartile ranges). Clustering analyses were effective at characterizing the temporal patterns of the seasonality, revealing that ∼459 km of beach (59%) exhibit winter-narrow conditions, whereas ∼189 km (24%) and ∼50 km (6.4%) exhibit spring-narrow and summer-narrow conditions, respectively. These spring- and summer-narrow conditions are most common in southern California, where they represent over half of the total length of beach shoreline. Multivariate analyses reveal that wave climate and geomorphic setting are significantly related to the magnitude and timing of shoreline seasonal cycles. Combinations of these variables explain 44% of the seasonality variance of the complete data set and 85% of the variance for a subset of 93 long (>1 km) continuous beaches. We conclude that diversity in waves and geomorphic setting along California cause a broad range of seasonal patterns in the shoreline. Combined, this indicates that the overly generalized “winter-narrow/summer-recovery” conventions for California beaches are not expressed universally and that shoreline seasonality is far more diverse than these simple canonical rules.

California↗

USGS2025

Shoreline change of western Long Island, New York, from satellite-derived shorelines

Shoreline measurement techniques using satellite-derived imagery can provide decades of observations of shoreline change. Here we apply these techniques to the western south shore of Long Island, New York, which has three distinct beaches, Rockaway Peninsula, Long Beach, and Jones Beach Island, which are 18, 15, and 24 km in length, respectively. These beaches are recreation areas for millions of regional residents and include several groin fields, sediment dredging and nourishment operations, and a coastal wave climate that includes winter northeasterly storms and summer hurricanes. The shorelines along the western ends of these three beaches have been accreting at ~4 m/yr during the observation record (1984–2022) resulting from net westward longshore drift. The central 10–12 km of the beaches have lower shoreline change rates, and these rates are generally lowest within the groin fields (0.5–1.5 m/yr). Shoreline change observations also provide evidence for westward propagating accretion and erosion sediment waves that have durations of several years. Beach nourishment projects are shown to significantly influence rates of shoreline accretion, and this is commonly followed by significant shoreline retreat during the subsequent years.

New York↗

USGS2024

Postfire sediment mobilization and its downstream implications across California, 1984 – 2021

Fire facilitates erosion through changes in vegetation and soil, with major postfire erosion commonly occurring even with moderate rainfall. As climate warms, the western United States (U.S.) is experiencing an intensifying fire regime and increasing frequency of extreme rain. We evaluated whether these hydroclimatic changes are evident in patterns of postfire erosion by modeling hillslope erosion following all wildfires larger than 100 km 2 in California from 1984 to 2021. Our results show that annual statewide postfire hillslope erosion has increased significantly over time. To supplement the hillslope erosion modeling, we compiled modeled and measured postfire debris-flow volumes. We find that, in northern California, more than 50% of fires triggering the top 20 values of sediment mass and sediment yield occurred in the most recent decade (between 2011 and 2021). In southern California, the postfire sediment budget was dominated by debris flows, which showed no temporal trend. Our analysis reveals that 57% of postfire sediment erosion statewide occurred upstream of reservoirs, indicating potential impacts to reservoir storage capacity and thus increased risk to water-resource security with ongoing climate change.

California↗

USGS2024

Remote sensing large-wood storage downstream of reservoirs during and after dam removal: Elwha River, Washington, USA

Large wood is an integral part of many rivers, often defining river-corridor morphology and habitat, but its occurrence, magnitude, and evolution in a river system are much less well understood than the sedimentary and hydraulic components, and due to methodological limitations, have seldom previously been mapped in substantial detail. We present a new method for this, representing a substantial advance in automated deep-learning-based image segmentation. From these maps, we measured large wood and sediment deposits from high-resolution orthoimages to explore the dynamics of large wood in two reaches of the Elwha River, Washington, USA, between 2012 and 2017 as it adjusted to upstream dam removals. The data set consists of a time series of orthoimages (12.5-cm resolution) constructed using Structure-from-Motion photogrammetry on imagery from 14 aerial surveys. Model training was optimized to yield maximum accuracy for estimated wood areas, compared to manually digitized wood, therefore model development and intended application were coupled. These fully reproducible methods and model resulted in a maximum of 15% error between observed and estimated total wood areas and wood deposit size-distributions over the full spatio-temporal extent of the data. Areal extent of wood in the channel margin approximately doubled in the years following dam removal, with greatest increases in large wood in wider, lower-gradient sections. Large-wood deposition increased between the start of dam removal (2011) and winter 2013, then plateaued. Sediment bars continued to grow up until 2016/17, assisted by a partially static wood framework deposited predominantly during the period up to winter 2013.

Washington↗

USGS2024

Post-fire sediment yield from a central California watershed: Field measurements and validation of the WEPP model

In a warming climate, an intensifying fire regime and higher likelihood of extreme rain are expected to increase watershed sediment yield in many regions. Understanding regional variability in landscape response to fire and post-fire rainfall is essential for managing water resources and infrastructure. We measured sediment yield resulting from sequential wildfire and extreme rain and flooding in the upper Carmel River watershed (116 km 2 ), on the central California coast, USA, using changes in sediment volume mapped in a reservoir. We determined that the sediment yield after fire and post-fire flooding was 854–1,100 t/km 2 /yr, a factor of 3.5–4.6 greater than the long-term yield from this watershed and more than an order of magnitude greater than during severe drought conditions. In this first large-scale field validation test of the WEPPcloud/ wepppy framework for the Water Erosion Prediction Project (WEPP) model on a burned landscape, WEPP predicted 81%–106% of the measured sediment yield. These findings will facilitate assessing and predicting future fire effects in steep watersheds with a Mediterranean climate and indicate that the increasingly widespread use of WEPP is appropriate for evaluating post-fire hillslope erosion even across 100-km 2 scales under conditions without debris flows.

California↗

USGS2024

CoastSeg: An accessible and extendable hub for satellite-derived-shoreline (SDS) detection and mapping

CoastSeg is an interactive browser-based program that aims to broaden the adoption of satellite-derived shoreline (SDS) detection and coastal landcover mapping workflows among coastal scientists and coastal resource management practitioners. SDS is a sub-field of coastal sciences that aims to detect and post-process a time-series of shoreline locations from publicly available satellite imagery. CoastSeg is a python package installed via pip into a conda environment that serves as an API for building custom SDS workflows. CoastSeg also provides full SDS workflow implementations via jupyter notebooks and python scripts that call functions and classes in the core CoastSeg API for specific workflows. Two fully functioning SDS workflows are already provided, and more could be added by collaborators in the SDS software community. All API codes, notebooks, scripts, and documentation are hosted on the CoastSeg GitHub repository.

Journal of Open Source Software↗

USGS2023

Nearshore subtidal community response during and after sediment disturbance associated with dam removal

Dam removal is used increasingly to restore aquatic ecosystems and remove unnecessary or high-risk infrastructure. As the number of removals increases, there is a growing understanding about the hydrologic, geomorphic, and ecological responses to these removals. Most dam removal studies, however, focus on river and watershed responses to dam removal. The removal of two dams on the Elwha River provided a unique opportunity to characterize the response of nearshore (coastal) ecosystems. We conducted SCUBA surveys between 2011 and 2022 to quantify trajectories of change in a nearshore ecosystem during and after dam removal. We focused on the degree to which the abundances of kelp, benthic invertebrates, and fish changed in response to patterns of sediment fluxes during and after dam removal. Our findings point to two pathways of response depending on the disturbance mechanism and species type. Sites with persistent sediment deposition were characterized by wholesale community changes that did not recover to a before dam removal condition. Instead, the sites were colonized by new species that were largely absent prior to dam removal. Sites that experienced high turbidity but lacked persistent seafloor deposition were primarily characterized by a reduction in the abundance of kelp and other algae during dam removal and a rapid recovery after sediment flux to the nearshore declined. Dam removal influences on invertebrates and fish at these sites were more variable, benefiting some species and disadvantaging others. In addition to dam removal, sea star wasting syndrome and a marine heatwave exerted distinct controls on subtidal communities during the same period. The loss of the predatory sea star Pycnopodia helianthoides was associated with gains in some of its prey species, and kelp community changes reflected regional trends in ocean temperature and kelp abundance. The results presented here have important implications for understanding the response of marine ecosystems to future dam removals and similar sediment perturbation events.

Washington↗

USGS2023

Accurate maps of reef-scale bathymetry with synchronized underwater cameras and GNSS

We investigate the utility of towed underwater camera systems with tightly coupled Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS) positions to provide reef-scale bathymetric models with millimeter to centimeter resolutions and accuracies with Structure-from-Motion (SfM) photogrammetry. Successful development of these techniques would allow for detailed assessments of benthic conditions, including the accretion and erosion of reefs and adjacent sediment deposits, without the need for ground control points. We use a multi-camera system towed by a small vessel to map over 70,000 m 2 of complex shallow (2–8 m water depth) bedrock reef, boulder fields, and fine (sand and gravel) sediments of Lake Tahoe, California. We find that multiple synchronized cameras increase overall mapping coverage and allow for wider survey line spacing. The accuracy of the techniques was sub-millimeter for local length measurements less than a meter, and the bathymetric reproducibility was found to scale with the accuracy of GNSS (3–5 cm), although this could be improved to sub-centimeter with the inclusion of one or more co-registered, but unsurveyed, control points. For future applications, we provide guidance on conducting field operations, correcting underwater image color, and optimizing the SfM workflows. We conclude that a GNSS-coupled underwater camera array is a promising technique to map shallow reefs at high accuracy and resolution without ground control.

California↗

USGS2023

A large sediment accretion wave along a northern California littoral cell

The northern California littoral cell of the Klamath River, which is a mixed rocky and sandy system with significant shoreline curvature, was investigated by examining ∼40 yr of satellite-derived shoreline positions and historical records. We find that an accretion wave of sediment was initiated near the Klamath River mouth in the late 1980s and translated downcoast over the subsequent decades. The wave passed rapidly (∼2,500 m/yr) through a rocky coastal reach with more oblique wave directions and slowly through a sandy reach (∼200 m/yr) where wave crests approach at more normal angles. Within the sandy reach, the accretion wave extended over 200 m offshore, was ∼10 km long, incorporated 20 ± 6 million m 3 of sediment, and averaged 1.3 ± 0.4 million m 3 /yr of longshore sediment transport over a 20-yr interval. Diffusion of the accretion wave was observed, but the diffusivity coefficient ( ε obs ∼0.01 m 2 /s) was lower than values predicted by theory, which we attribute to net sediment transport convergence in the study area caused by the curvature of the shoreline. Examining historical records, we find that increased sediment discharge in the Klamath River occurred during the 20th century from industrial-scale logging and climatic extremes. Thus, we hypothesize that increased river sediment discharge introduced new sediment to the littoral cell that initiated the observed accretion wave. These hypotheses can be tested with stratigraphic and mineralogic investigations of the broad study area beach that has formed during the past 150 years.

California↗

USGS2023

Colored shaded-relief bathymetric map and orthomosaic from structure-from-motion quantitative underwater imaging device with five cameras of the Lake Tahoe floor, California

This two-sheet publication displays a high-resolution colored shaded-relief bathymetric map (sheet 1) and orthomosaic (sheet 2) of part of the Lake Tahoe floor in California generated from a U.S. Geological Survey towed surface vehicle with multiple downward-looking underwater cameras. The system is named the Structure-from-Motion Quantitative Underwater Imaging Device with Five Cameras (SQUID-5). The cameras were synchronized with each other and with a survey-grade Global Navigation Satellite System. A total of 42,939 photographs were collected with nearly complete overlapping coverage of an area approximately 250 meters by 250 meters. A digital terrain model and an orthomosaic were generated from the overlapping photographs using Structure-from-Motion and photogrammetry techniques. Gaps are present in the bathymetry data owing to data-collection or -processing artifacts. These two sheets display the very fine details of the lake floor mapped using SQUID-5.

California↗