Geology topics

David M. Thompson

Publications and source records attributed to David M. Thompson.

At least 19 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2025

Modeling the impacts of sand placement strategies on barrier island evolution in a semi-enclosed bay system

This study assesses the impacts of five proposed restoration actions at Little Dauphin Island, a low-lying relic spit in a semi-enclosed bay system on the Alabama coast. A Delft3D model is developed to simulate annual scale (five-year) sediment transport and resulting bed level changes. The model is validated with observed water level and wave data, as well as sediment tracers that were deployed offshore of the island. An XBeach model is developed to simulate storm-driven morphologic change and is validated for hurricanes Ivan (2004), Katrina (2005)and Sally (2020). Together, the models are used to assess differences in the island's morphological response under a no-action (status quo) scenario representing a continuous island, tidal inlet realignment, a sand motor nourishment, beach and dune restoration and a dredged offshore borrow area. The no-action scenario revealed that the island breached at multiple locations including the location of the proposed inlet realignment during each storm. The realigned channel did not prevent breaching on the island, but reduced the magnitude of sand transported through the breaches. The sand motor provided some sheltering to leeward shorelines during storms but did not prevent breaching from occurring elsewhere. Fairweather waves and currents were not strong enough to transport sand outside of the vicinity of the feature to feed adjacent shorelines as intended. The beach and dune restoration reduced storm-driven overtopping along the nourished shoreline. For habitat purposes, strategically placed bayous provided low elevation points that allowed overwash depending on the direction of cross-barrier water level gradients.

Alabama↗

USGS2023

Modeling the effects of interior headland restoration on estuarine sediment transport processes in a marine-dominant estuary

The effects of interior headland restoration on estuarine sediment transport processes were assessed through process-based numerical modeling. Three proposed interior headland restoration scenarios in the Grand Bay estuary (Mississippi/Alabama) were modeled using Delft3D to understand impacts on suspended sediment concentrations, bed level morphology, and sediment fluxes under present-day conditions and a sea level rise (SLR) of 0.5 m, representing a high projection of SLR by the year 2050. Model results showed localized differences in bed levels near the restored features after a year of simulated morphologic change. The restored headland features acted as a sediment source to the immediate surroundings while also providing some non-significant sheltering effect of backshore shoals and marsh shorelines. Sediment fluxes were sensitive to wind directions and the presence of the restored headlands. However, regardless of wind direction, mean sea level, or restoration action, the greatest sediment fluxes were always export fluxes from the estuary, which were further increased with increased sea level. Suspended sediment concentrations were highly influenced by SLR in a non-linear manner. Sediment concentrations both increased and decreased depending on depth under SLR. Furthermore, SLR allowed for the suspension and deposition of sediments on the marsh platform. Overall, the influence of SLR was more impactful to changing sediment dynamics than the influence of the restoration features.

Alabama↗

USGS2020

The roles of storminess and sea level rise in decadal barrier island evolution

Models of alongshore sediment transport during quiescent conditions, storm‐driven barrier island morphology, and poststorm dune recovery are integrated to assess decadal barrier island evolution under scenarios of increased sea levels and variability in storminess (intensity and frequency). Model results indicate barrier island response regimes of keeping pace, narrowing, flattening, deflation (narrowing and flattening), and aggradation. Under lower storminess scenarios, more areas of the island experienced narrowing due to collision. Under higher storminess scenarios, more areas experienced flattening due to overwash and inundation. Both increased sea levels and increased storminess resulted in breaching when the majority of the island was not keeping pace and deflation was the dominant regime due to increased overtopping. Under the highest storminess scenario, the island was unable to recover elevation after storms and drowned in just 10 years.

Alabama↗

USGS2020

Development of a modeling framework for predicting decadal barrier island evolution

Predicting the decadal evolution of barrier island systems is important for coastal managers who propose restoration or preservation alternatives aimed at increasing the resiliency of the island and its associated habitats or communities. Existing numerical models for simulating morphologic changes typically include either long-term (for example, longshore transport under quiescent conditions) or short-term (for example, storm-driven waves) processes, with limited capacity to predict the decadal time-scale that is often most relevant in coastal planning. As part of the Alabama Barrier Island Restoration Assessment, a methodology was developed to predict barrier island evolution on decadal time scales. The developed modeling scheme uses multiple models including (1) Delft3D; (2) the empirical dune growth model (EDGR); and (3) XBeach that run sequentially to simulate evolution of barrier island geomorphology. The model framework was developed and applied to hindcast the evolution of Dauphin Island, Alabama, between 2004 and 2015, and was assessed using lidar data over the same period.

Alabama↗

USGS2020

Application of decadal modeling approach to forecast barrier island evolution, Dauphin Island, Alabama

Forecasting barrier island evolution provides coastal managers and stakeholders the ability to assess the resiliency of these important coastal environments that are home to both established communities and existing natural habitats. This study uses an established coupled model framework to assess how Dauphin Island, Alabama, responds to various storm and sea-level change scenarios, along with a suite of restoration measures, over the course of a decade. The coupled model framework uses validated models for long-term alongshore sediment transport (Delft 3D), short-term storm induced impacts (XBeach), as well as dune building and recovery (empirical dune growth model). This model framework was simulated with the various storm and sea-level change scenarios on a non-restored Dauphin Island, then a subset of the storm and sea-level change scenarios were applied to a suite of seven different restoration measures to determine how they would influence the morphologic evolution over a decadal period. Topographic and bathymetric changes captured in post-simulation digital elevation models were then passed on to partners for various simulations to determine the effects on habitat evolution and water quality as it relates to oyster reef and submerged aquatic vegetation.

Alabama↗

USGS2020

Development of a process-based littoral sediment transport model for Dauphin Island, Alabama

Dauphin Island, Alabama, located in the Northern Gulf of Mexico just outside of Mobile Bay, is Alabama’s only barrier island and provides an array of historical, natural, and economic resources. The dynamic island shoreline of Dauphin Island evolved across time scales while constantly acted upon by waves and currents during both storms and calm periods. Reductions in the vulnerability and enhancements to the resiliency of Dauphin Island—through offshore sand placement, breach closure, berm construction, and other means—have been used to protect the island and its vital resources. Planning for a resilient Dauphin Island requires predicting the long-term evolution of the barrier island system and the dominant, temporally varying processes that influence it, including littoral alongshore sediment transport under typical wave conditions, beach and dune erosion, the island overwash and breaching that occur rapidly during storm events, and the recovery of primary sand dunes through Aeolian transport over decadal time scales. Littoral sediment transport within the Dauphin Island decadal-scale framework was simulated using the Delft-3D modeling software suite. The influences of wind, waves, water levels, and sediment transport are incorporated into the model. Model skill in the prediction of waves, water levels, currents, volumetric flow rates through inlets, and shoreline position was assessed by using a set of deterministic and statistical hindcast simulations. The Delft-3D modeling application described here can be coupled with validated models of storm-response and dune recovery to predict the evolution of Dauphin Island on decadal time scales.

Alabama↗

USGS2020

Forecasting future beach width- A case study along the Florida Atlantic coast

Historical cross-shore positions of the shoreline and dune base were used as inputs for a Kalman filter algorithm to forecast the positions of these features in the year 2028. The beach width was also computed as the cross-shore distance between the forecasted 2028 shoreline and dune-base positions. While it does not evaluate the suitability of a nesting beach or identify optimal nesting habitat, the beach width can be used as a proxy for habitat availability. An analysis was conducted along the Florida Atlantic coast with an initial goal of demonstrating a method that combines available data for shoreline and dune positions with a Kalman Filter algorithm developed to predict decadal-scale shoreline evolution and then uses these features to define future beach width. This section of the southeastern United States hosts the largest assemblage of nesting loggerhead sea turtles ( Caretta caretta ) in the world, in addition to other species, and critical habitat is designated as part of the species’ listing package under the Endangered Species Act of 1973 (16 U.S.C. ch. 35 § 1531 et seq) for most of the nesting beaches within the study area. This work introduces an approach to inform ecosystem services assessments using data typically derived for shoreline change and storm vulnerability models.

Florida↗

USGS2020

Event and decadal-scale modeling of barrier island restoration designs for decision support

An interdisciplinary project team was convened to develop a modeling framework that simulates the potential impacts of storms and sea level-rise to habitat availability at Breton Island, Louisiana (Breton) for existing conditions and potential future restoration designs. The model framework was iteratively developed through evaluation of model results at multiple checkpoints. A methodology was developed for characterizing regional wave and water levels, and the numerical model XBeach was used to simulate the potential impacts from a wide range of storm events. Simulations quantified the potential for erosion, overwash, and inundation of the pre- and post-restoration beach and dune system and were used as a preliminary screening of restoration designs. The model framework also incorporated a computationally efficient method to evaluate the impacts of storms, long-term shoreline changes, and relative sea level rise over a 15-year time period in order to evaluate the effect of the preferred restoration alternative on habitat distribution. Results directly informed engineering design decisions and expedited later project stages including the construction permitting process.

Shore & Beach↗

USGS2018

Effects of proposed navigation channel improvements on sediment transport in Mobile Harbor, Alabama

A Delft3D model was developed to evaluate the potential effects of proposed navigation channel deepening and widening in Mobile Harbor, Alabama. The model performance was assessed through comparisons of modeled and observed data of water levels, velocities, and bed level changes; the model captured hydrodynamic and sediment transport patterns in the study area with skill. The validated model was used to simulate changes in sediment transport for existing conditions and with the proposed modifications to the navigational channel (with-project), with and without accounting for 0.5 meter (m) of sea level rise (SLR). Each scenario was simulated for 1 year with a wave climatology representative of the year 2010 as well as for 10 years with a longer-term wave climatology spanning from 1988 to 2016. Bed level differences for the existing and with-project 2010 simulations were minimal, ranging from −0.11 to 0.11 m offshore of Pelican Island and −0.81 to 0.22 m offshore of the Fort Morgan Peninsula. For the simulations accounting for 0.5 m of SLR, differences in bed levels from −0.20 to 0.32 m near Pelican Island and −0.38 to 0.34 m offshore of the Fort Morgan Peninsula. The proposed modifications reduced the channel shoaling volume by 4.77 and 8.09 percent for the 2010 simulations without and with 0.5 m of SLR, respectively. For the 10-year simulations, bed level differences for the existing and with-project simulations ranged from −3.17 to 3.94 m for the simulation without SLR and −1.92 to 1.47 m for the simulation with 0.5 m of SLR. The with-project condition reduced the entrance channel shoaling volume by 5.54 percent for the simulation without SLR and 14.98 percent for the simulation with 0.5 m of SLR.

Alabama↗

USGS2018

A framework for modeling scenario-based barrier island storm impacts

Methods for investigating the vulnerability of existing or proposed coastal features to storm impacts often rely on simplified parametric models or one-dimensional process-based modeling studies that focus on changes to a profile across a dune or barrier island. These simple studies tend to neglect the impacts to curvilinear or alongshore varying island planforms, influence of non-uniform nearshore hydrodynamics and sediment transport, irregular morphology of the offshore bathymetry, and impacts from low magnitude wave events (e.g. cold fronts). Presented here is a framework for simulating regionally specific, low and high magnitude scenario-based storm impacts to assess the alongshore variable vulnerabilities of a coastal feature. Storm scenarios based on historic hydrodynamic conditions were derived and simulated using the process-based morphologic evolution model XBeach. Model results show that the scenarios predicted similar patterns of erosion and overwash when compared to observed qualitative morphologic changes from recent storm events that were not included in the dataset used to build the scenarios. The framework model simulations were capable of predicting specific areas of vulnerability in the existing feature and the results illustrate how this storm vulnerability simulation framework could be used as a tool to help inform the decision-making process for scientists, engineers, and stakeholders involved in coastal zone management or restoration projects.

Chandeleur Islands↗

USGS2017

Correction of elevation offsets in multiple co-located lidar datasets

Introduction Topographic elevation data collected with airborne light detection and ranging (lidar) can be used to analyze short- and long-term changes to beach and dune systems. Analysis of multiple lidar datasets at Dauphin Island, Alabama, revealed systematic, island-wide elevation differences on the order of 10s of centimeters (cm) that were not attributable to real-world change and, therefore, were likely to represent systematic sampling offsets. These offsets vary between the datasets, but appear spatially consistent within a given survey. This report describes a method that was developed to identify and correct offsets between lidar datasets collected over the same site at different times so that true elevation changes over time, associated with sediment accumulation or erosion, can be analyzed.

Alabama↗

USGS2017

A methodology for modeling barrier island storm-impact scenarios

A methodology for developing a representative set of storm scenarios based on historical wave buoy and tide gauge data for a region at the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, was developed by the U.S. Geological Survey. The total water level was calculated for a 10-year period and analyzed against existing topographic data to identify when storm-induced wave action would affect island morphology. These events were categorized on the basis of the threshold of total water level and duration to create a set of storm scenarios that were simulated, using a high-fidelity, process-based, morphologic evolution model, on an idealized digital elevation model of the Chandeleur Islands. The simulated morphological changes resulting from these scenarios provide a range of impacts that can help coastal managers determine resiliency of proposed or existing coastal structures and identify vulnerable areas within those structures.

Louisiana↗

USGS2017

Coastal bathymetry data collected in 2013 from the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana

As part of the Barrier Island Evolution Research Project, scientists from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center conducted nearshore geophysical surveys around the northern Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, in July and August of 2013. The objective of the study is to better understand barrier-island geomorphic evolution, particularly storm-related depositional and erosional processes that shape the islands over annual to interannual timescales (1‒5 years). Collecting geophysical data will allow us to identify relationships between the geologic history of the island and its present day morphology and sediment distribution. This mapping effort was the third in a series of three planned surveys in this area. High resolution geophysical data collected in each of three consecutive years along this rapidly changing barrier island system will provide a unique time-series dataset that will significantly further the analyses and geomorphological interpretations of this and other coastal systems, improving our understanding of coastal response and evolution over short time scales (1‒5 years). This data series includes the geophysical data that were collected during two cruises (USGS Field Activity Numbers (FAN) 13BIM02, 13BIM03, and 13BIM04, in July 2013; and FANs 13BIM07 and 13BIM08 in August 2013) aboard the R/V Sallenger , the R/V Jabba Jaw , and the R/V Shark along the northern portion of the Chandeleur Islands, Breton National Wildlife Refuge, Louisiana. Primary data were acquired with the following equipment: (1) a Systems Engineering and Assessment, Ltd., SWATHplus interferometric sonar (468 kilohertz [kHz]), (2) an EdgeTech 424 (4‒24 kHz) chirp sub-bottom profiling system, and (3) two Odom Hydrographic Systems, Incorporated, Echotrach CV100 single beam echosounders. This data series report serves as an archive of processed interferometric swath and single-beam bathymetry data. Geographic information system data products include an interpolated digital elevation model, trackline maps, and point data files. Additional files include error analysis maps, Field Activity Collection System logs, and formal Federal Geographic Data Committee metadata.

Louisiana↗

USGS2015

Archive of bathymetry data collected at Cape Canaveral, Florida, 2014

Remotely sensed, geographically referenced elevation measurements of the sea floor, acquired by boat- and aircraft-based survey systems, were produced by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St. Petersburg, Florida, for the area at Cape Canaveral. The work was conducted as part of a study to describe an updated bathymetric dataset collected in 2014 and compare it to previous data sets. The updated data focus on the bathymetric features and sediment transport pathways that connect the offshore regions to the shoreline and, therefore, are related to the protection of other portions of the coastal environment, such as dunes, that support infrastructure and ecosystems. Cape Canaveral Coastal System (CCCS) is a prominent feature along the Southeast U.S. coastline and is the only large cape south of Cape Fear, North Carolina. Most of the CCCS lies within the Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge and included within its boundaries are the Cape Canaveral Air Force Station (CCAFS), NASA’s Kennedy Space Center (KSC), and a large portion of Canaveral National Seashore. The actual promontory of the modern cape falls within the jurisdictional boundaries of the CCAFS. Hydrographic survey data were collected August 18-20, 2014 ( USGS Field Activity Number 2014-324-FA ). The study covered a 20 kilometer (km) section of shoreline extending from Port Canaveral, Fla., to the northern end of the KSC property, and from the shoreline to about 2.5 km offshore. Data were acquired using both sound navigation and ranging (sonar) and light detection and ranging (lidar) systems. Two jet skis and a 17-foot (ft) outboard motor boat equipped with the USGS SANDS (System for Accurate Nearshore Depth Surveying) hydrographic system collected precision sonar data. The USGS airborne EAARL-B mapping system flown in a twin engine airplane was used to collect lidar data. The missions were synchronized so that there was temporal and spatial overlap between the sonar and lidar operations. Additional data were collected to evaluate water clarity to verify the ability of lidar to receive bathymetric returns. Both systems used differential Global Positioning System GPS and utilized the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/National Geodetic Survey (NOAA/NGS) Continuously Operating Reference Station (CORS) station located at CCAFS was used as the reference station. This data series serves as an archive of processed single-beam sonar and lidar bathymetry data. Graphical Information System (GIS) data products include XYZ point bathymetry data files, a color coded bathymetry map, and interpolated bathymetry grid surface. Additional information includes an error analysis and formal Federal Geographic Data Committee (FGDC) metadata. For more information about similar projects, please visit the Barrier Island Evolution Web site.

Florida↗

USGS2015

Analysis of bathymetric surveys to identify coastal vulnerabilities at Cape Canaveral, Florida

Cape Canaveral, Florida, is a prominent feature along the Southeast U.S. coastline. The region includes Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge, Cape Canaveral Air Force Station, NASA’s Kennedy Space Center, and a large portion of Canaveral National Seashore. The actual promontory of the modern Cape falls within the jurisdictional boundaries of Cape Canaveral Air Force Station. Erosion hazards result from winter and tropical storms, changes in sand resources, sediment budgets, and sea-level rise. Previous work by the USGS has focused on the vulnerability of the dunes to storms, where updated bathymetry and topography have been used for modeling efforts. Existing research indicates that submerged shoals, ridges, and sandbars affect patterns of wave refraction and height, coastal currents, and control sediment transport. These seabed anomalies indicate the availability and movement of sand within the nearshore environment, which may be directly related to the stability of the Cape Canaveral shoreline. Understanding the complex dynamics of the offshore bathymetry and associated sediment pathways can help identify current and future erosion vulnerabilities due to short-term (for example, hurricane and other extreme storms) and long-term (for example, sea-level rise) hazards. The purpose of this work is to describe an updated bathymetric dataset collected in 2014 and compare it to previous datasets. The updated data focus on the bathymetric features and sediment transport pathways that connect the offshore regions to the shoreline and, therefore, are related to the protection of other portions of the coastal environment, such as dunes, that support infrastructure and ecosystems. Previous survey data include National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA) National Ocean Service (NOS) hydrographic survey from 1956 and a USGS survey from 2010 that is augmented with NOS surveys from 2006 and 2007. The primary result of this analysis is documentation and quantification of the nature and rates of bathymetric changes that are near (within about 2.5 km) the current Cape Canaveral shoreline and interpretation of the impact of these changes on future erosion vulnerability.

Florida↗

USGS2014

Inundation of a barrier island (Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, USA) during a hurricane: Observed water-level gradients and modeled seaward sand transport

Large geomorphic changes to barrier islands may occur during inundation, when storm surge exceeds island elevation. Inundation occurs episodically and under energetic conditions that make quantitative observations difficult. We measured water levels on both sides of a barrier island in the northern Chandeleur Islands during inundation by Hurricane Isaac. Wind patterns caused the water levels to slope from the bay side to the ocean side for much of the storm. Modeled geomorphic changes during the storm were very sensitive to the cross-island slopes imposed by water-level boundary conditions. Simulations with equal or landward sloping water levels produced the characteristic barrier island storm response of overwash deposits or displaced berms with smoother final topography. Simulations using the observed seaward sloping water levels produced cross-barrier channels and deposits of sand on the ocean side, consistent with poststorm observations. This sensitivity indicates that accurate water-level boundary conditions must be applied on both sides of a barrier to correctly represent the geomorphic response to inundation events. More broadly, the consequence of seaward transport is that it alters the relationship between storm intensity and volume of landward transport. Sand transported to the ocean side may move downdrift, or aid poststorm recovery by moving onto the beach face or closing recent breaches, but it does not contribute to island transgression or appear as an overwash deposit in the back-barrier stratigraphic record. The high vulnerability of the Chandeleur Islands allowed us to observe processes that are infrequent but may be important at other barrier islands.

Louisiana↗

USGS2014

Predictions of barrier island berm evolution in a time-varying storm climatology

Low-lying barrier islands are ubiquitous features of the world's coastlines, and the processes responsible for their formation, maintenance, and destruction are related to the evolution of smaller, superimposed features including sand dunes, beach berms, and sandbars. The barrier island and its superimposed features interact with oceanographic forces (e.g., overwash) and exchange sediment with each other and other parts of the barrier island system. These interactions are modulated by changes in storminess. An opportunity to study these interactions resulted from the placement and subsequent evolution of a 2 m high sand berm constructed along the northern Chandeleur Islands, LA. We show that observed berm length evolution is well predicted by a model that was fit to the observations by estimating two parameters describing the rate of berm length change. The model evaluates the probability and duration of berm overwash to predict episodic berm erosion. A constant berm length change rate is also predicted that persists even when there is no overwash. The analysis is extended to a 16 year time series that includes both intraannual and interannual variability of overwash events. This analysis predicts that as many as 10 or as few as 1 day of overwash conditions would be expected each year. And an increase in berm elevation from 2 m to 3.5 m above mean sea level would reduce the expected frequency of overwash events from 4 to just 0.5 event-days per year. This approach can be applied to understanding barrier island and berm evolution at other locations using past and future storm climatologies.

Louisiana↗

USGS2014

A probabilistic method for constructing wave time-series at inshore locations using model scenarios

Continuous time-series of wave characteristics (height, period, and direction) are constructed using a base set of model scenarios and simple probabilistic methods. This approach utilizes an archive of computationally intensive, highly spatially resolved numerical wave model output to develop time-series of historical or future wave conditions without performing additional, continuous numerical simulations. The archive of model output contains wave simulations from a set of model scenarios derived from an offshore wave climatology. Time-series of wave height, period, direction, and associated uncertainties are constructed at locations included in the numerical model domain. The confidence limits are derived using statistical variability of oceanographic parameters contained in the wave model scenarios. The method was applied to a region in the northern Gulf of Mexico and assessed using wave observations at 12 m and 30 m water depths. Prediction skill for significant wave height is 0.58 and 0.67 at the 12 m and 30 m locations, respectively, with similar performance for wave period and direction. The skill of this simplified, probabilistic time-series construction method is comparable to existing large-scale, high-fidelity operational wave models but provides higher spatial resolution output at low computational expense. The constructed time-series can be developed to support a variety of applications including climate studies and other situations where a comprehensive survey of wave impacts on the coastal area is of interest.

Coastal Engineering↗