C. Brock Woodson | Geology Reports

USGS2026

A process-based model for forecasting wave runup along the coast of Georgia

Wave runup is an important nearshore process that impacts total water level, sediment transport, and coastal design. Current methods for forecasting wave runup implement an empirical model that considers offshore wave height, wave period, and generalized beach slope. In this study, the authors generated wave runup forecasts from offshore wave conditions and a system of polynomial equations derived from numerical simulations at three different still water datums for each beach profile. They developed a process-based methodology that incorporated site-specific cross-shore topobathy into the phase-resolving numerical model. A comparison between the system of equations, deterministic hydrodynamic simulations, and observed high-water marks was made using Hurricanes Matthew (2016) and Irma (2017) for 12 cases, and it showed that the polynomials were capable of being consistent with the results from full simulation runs, while not requiring hours of runtime when a forecast was needed—the differences between the polynomial and the observed high water marks ranged from 3 to 32 cm for the Irma hindcast and 9–70 cm for Matthew. Then, using forcings from Hurricanes Ian and Nicole (2022), the model predicted the occurrence of dune collision, overwash, and inundation for the coast of Georgia and suggested that wave runup was impacted by the still water level and local topobathy.

Georgia↗

USGS2021

Characterization of the biological, physical, and chemical properties of a toxic thin layer in a temperate marine system

The distribution of plankton in the ocean is patchy across a wide range of spatial and temporal scales. One type of oceanographic feature that exemplifies this patchiness is a ‘thin layer’. Thin layers are subsurface aggregations of plankton that range in vertical thickness from centimeters to a few meters, which may extend horizontally for kilometers and persist for days. We undertook a field campaign to characterize the biological, physical, and chemical properties of thin layers in Monterey Bay, California (USA), an area where these features can be persistent. The particle aggregates (marine snow) sampled in the study had several quantifiable properties indicating how the layer was formed and how its structure was maintained. Particles were more elongated above the layer, and then changed orientation angle and increased in size within the layer, suggesting passive accumulation of particles along a physical gradient. The shift in particle aggregate orientation angle near the pycnocline suggests that shear may also have played a role in generating the thin layer. Pseudo-nitzschia spp. were the most abundant phytoplankton within the thin layer. Further, both dissolved and particulate domoic acid were highest within the thin layer. We suggest that phosphate stress is responsible for the formation of Pseudo-nitzschia spp. aggregates. This stress together with increased nitrogen in the layer may lead to increased bloom toxicity in the subsurface blooms of Pseudo-nitzschia spp. Several zooplankton groups were observed to aggregate above and below the layer. With the knowledge that harmful algal bloom events can occur in subsurface thin layers, modified sampling methods to monitor for these hidden incubators could greatly improve the efficacy of early-warning systems designed to detect harmful algal blooms in coastal waters.

Marine Ecology Progress Series (MEPS)↗