B. Richmond | Geology Reports

USGS2009

Rates and trends of coastal change in california and the regional behavior of the beach and cliff system

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) recently completed an analysis of shoreline change and cliff retreat along the California coast. This is the first regional, systematic measurement of coastal change conducted for the West Coast. Long-term (-120 y) and short-term (-25 y) shoreline change rates were calculated for more than 750 km of coastline, and 70 year cliff-retreat rates were generated for 350 km of coast. Results show that 40% of California's beaches were eroding in the long term. This number increased to 66% in the short term, indicating that many beaches have shifted toward a state of chronic erosion. The statewide average net shoreline change rates for the long and short term were 0.2 m/y and -0.2 m/y, respectively. The long-term accretional signal is likely related to large coastal engineering projects in some parts of the state and to large fluxes of sediment from rivers in other areas. The cliff-retreat assessment yielded a statewide average of -0.3 m/y. It was found that Northern California has the highest overall retreat rates, which are influenced by erosion hot spots associated with large coastal landslides and slumps. The databases established as part of the shoreline change and cliff-retreat analyses were further investigated to examine the dynamics of the beach/cliff system. A correlation analysis identified a strong relationship between the geomorphology of the coast and the behavior of the beach/cliff system. Areas of high-relief coast show negative correlations, indicating that higher rates of cliff retreat correlate with lower rates of shoreline erosion. In contrast, low- to moderate-relief coasts show strong positive correlations, wherein areas of high shoreline change correspond to areas of high cliff retreat.

Journal of Coastal Research↗

USGS2003

Mapping Shoreline Change Using Digital Orthophotogrammetry on Maui, Hawaii

Digital, aerial orthophotomosaics with 0.5-3.0 m horizontal accuracy, used with NOAA topographic maps (T-sheets), document past shoreline positions on Maui Island, Hawaii. Outliers in the shoreline position database are determined using a least median of squares regression. Least squares linear regression of the reweighted data (outliers excluded) is used to determine a shoreline trend termed the reweighted linear squares (RLS). To determine the annual erosion hazard rate (AEHR) for use by shoreline managers the RLS data is smoothed in the longshore direction using a weighted moving average five transects wide with the smoothed rate applied to the center transect. Weightings within each five transect group are 1,3,5,3,1. AEHR's (smoothed RLS values) are plotted on a 1:3000 map series for use by shoreline managers and planners. These maps are displayed on the web for public reference at http://www.co.maui.hi.us/ departments/Planning/erosion.htm. An end-point rate of change is also calculated using the earliest T-sheet and the latest collected shoreline (1997 or 2002). The resulting database consists of 3565 separate erosion rates spaced every 20 m along 90 km of sandy shoreline. Three regions are analyzed: Kihei, West Maui, and North Shore coasts. The Kihei Coast has an average AEHR of about 0.3 m/yr, an end point rate (EPR) of 0.2 m/yr, 2.8 km of beach loss and 19 percent beach narrowing in the period 1949-1997. Over the same period the West Maui coast has an average AEHR of about 0.2 m/yr, an average EPR of about 0.2 m/yr, about 4.5 km of beach loss and 25 percent beach narrowing. The North Shore has an average AEHR of about 0.4 m/yr, an average EPR of about 0.3 m/yr, 0.8 km of beach loss and 15 percent beach narrowing. The mean, island-wide EPR of eroding shorelines is 0.24 m/yr and the average AEHR of eroding shorelines is about 0.3 m/yr. The overall shoreline change rate, erosion and accretion included, as measured using the unsmoothed RLS technique is 0.21 m/yr. Island wide changes in beach width show a 19 percent decrease over the period 1949/ 1950 to 1997/2002. Island-wide, about 8 km of dry beach has been lost since 1949 (i.e., high water against hard engineering structures and natural rock substrate).

Conference Paper↗